A dry sparkler made exclusively from Clairette.

If Télégramme is more about fruit than stones, it is still undeniably Châteauneuf, expressing the nobility of carefully farmed Grenache from the Rhône’s finest terroirs.

A relatively rare beast, Serge’s blanc is a ripe, honey-infused cornucopia of fruit.

The flavors are mostly deep and dark—stones, licorice, black olive, and blackberry—but the frame is lithe.

This is about as quaffable as the region’s rouges get.

Clairette, an unsung hero of the south, is the main grape here, undoubtedly one of many key elements to this singular wine.

This bears a rich bouquet of wild strawberry, flowers, garrigue, and sweet spices, culminating in a long, stony finale.

Rich fruitiness on the palate recalls ripe strawberries, and then notes of spice and licorice kick in for a full-bodied, full-flavored finish that marries beautifully with ratatouille or smoked pork chops.

Stony and smoky, and full of garrigue and black cherry, it is an epic wine that opens up wonderfully now.

The 2022 vintage drinks like something even more ethereal than you’d expect from a southern red.