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October 2023 Newsletter
Receive our Monthly Newsletter and Special Promotions. Stay up to date on new arrivals, sales, and events at our Berkeley shop.

October 2023 Newsletter
Table of Contents
- Piemonte Forager’s Sampler by Madison Brown
- Age-Worthy French Whites by Dixon Brooke
- Cru Beaujolais by Jane Augustine
- A Travel Guide to Le Marche by Anthony Lynch
- Mediterranean Grenache by Dixon Brooke
- Values of the Month by Tom Wolf
-
Producer Spotlight
Clos Canarelli by Chris Santini
I’ve loved foraging since I was a kid. I have fond memories of snacking on freshly dug yampa roots in the high desert mountains and of crisp morning...

Truffle hunting in Piemonte
I’ve loved foraging since I was a kid. I have fond memories of snacking on freshly dug yampa roots in the high desert mountains and of crisp mornings picking wild plums, frosty leaves crunching underfoot. Just this week, walks with my dog have yielded handfuls of blackberries, and soon patches of golden chanterelles will awaken here in my neck of the redwoods.
The rich, rolling hills of Piemonte are a forager’s paradise. In my daydreams of an idyllic life abroad, I spend mornings combing through damp leaves of centuries-old chestnut forests seeking giant porcini or the elusive tartufo bianco (white truffle). My table brims with baskets of wild greens and herbs to accompany an indulgent diet of pastas, cheese, and cured meats. Ahh, la bella vita!
There’s something exuberantly abundant about Piemonte, an enchanting quality mirrored in the wines. Giulia Negri’s Barolo “La Tartufaia,” an earthy, sensorial opus, is named after a truffle forest beside the vineyard. Bèrto’s vermouth is an infusion of herbs and spices, crafted according to a secret family recipe. A juicy blend of indigenous varieties, Tenuta La Pergola’s Monferrato Rosso tastes like brambly berries with notes of rosemary and wild mint. This sampler is a gateway to the delights of Piemontese bounty: a dozen daydream-rousing bottles to pair with seasonally inspired dishes like mushroom ragù or herb-crusted roasts.
Buy this sampler 12 bottles
The vines deliver grapes with the perfect balance of rich, smoky depth and hot stone minerality, built to age, with sublime aromas, textures, and flav...
Buy this collection 3 bottles
Wines in this Collection

2020 Saumur Blanc “L’Échelier”
France | Loire
This dry Chenin Blanc is etched from the white limestone beneath—crystalline, pure, and chiseled.

2020 Rully Blanc 1er Cru “Rabourcé”
France | Burgundy
Rabourcé is considered one of the top premiers crus in Rully. Its old vines sit on a steep clay and limestone slope and yield a complex, powerful white Burgundy.

2020 Pinot Gris Grand Cru “Brand”
France | Alsace
Decadent, rich, stony, and a touch off-dry—hard not to love.
In the natural wine world of “ethereal” Gamays, this one is flawless and buoyant, yet intensely perfumed…

Château Thivin’s vineyards
Buy this collection 3 bottles
Wines in this Collection

2021 Brouilly “Reverdon”
France | Beaujolais
Precision, soaring floral aromatics, finely etched tannins, a ripe core of dense fruit, and a granitic crunch on the back end.

2021 Fleurie “Les Moriers”
France | Beaujolais
This Fleurie beautifully combines high-toned finesse with a potent depth. Can a wine be delicately intense?

2021 Chiroubles “Cuvée Léa”
France | Beaujolais
Floral and succulent, bursting with notes of little red berries, but it is also delicate and light on its feet.
For your next Italian vacation, forget the usual suspects. Leave the strikingly rugged coastline of Amalfi, the azure beaches of Sicily and Sardi...

Harvest at La Marca di San Michele
For your next Italian vacation, forget the usual suspects. Leave the strikingly rugged coastline of Amalfi, the azure beaches of Sicily and Sardinia, and the storied ruins of Rome for another time. Instead, I recommend a place you may not even know exists.
When I rave about Le Marche (lay mar-kay), I’m more often than not met with a blank stare. But if gorgeous, unspoiled landscapes descending from the mountains to the sea, charming villages with more locals than tourists, a delectable local cuisine, and a burgeoning wine scene sound like something you might enjoy, then read on.
Getting to Le Marche is not easy, and that’s probably why you’ll find respite from the swarms of tourists who flock to more popular destinations. Situated about halfway down the boot, Le Marche is Tuscany’s Adriatic counterpart, featuring 110 miles of sprawling coastline that rises inland toward Italy’s mountainous backbone: the Apennines. Your best bet is to fly into Bologna. Lay over for an evening to enjoy thinly sliced mortadella and cool, frothy Lambrusco, and then you are just a two-hour drive to the coastal town of Senigallia—our home base in Le Marche.
Once in Senigallia, your first order of business is to stock up on wine. Galli is the best enoteca in town—and perhaps in Italy—and you’ll find plenty of familiar labels, including Quintarelli, Giulia Negri, and even French treasures like Robert-Denogent and mature Lapierre Morgon. The affable owner, Guido Galli, will be more than happy to show off local specialties, and when you’re in Le Marche, that means Verdicchio.
Among Italy’s great white grapes, Verdicchio can make everything from seaside quaffers to textured, age-worthy collectibles. Picture the herbal and floral aromatics of Vermentino with a Riesling-like acidity, and you have an idea. Sprinkle in some Muscadet and white Burgundy: now you can imagine the complete range of what this grape can do.
At this point, it’s time for an aperitivo, and La Marca di San Michele’s NumerOcinque, a sophisticated bottle-refermented Verdicchio still resting on its lees, is just the ticket. With sloping limestone vineyards amid Le Marche’s lush rolling hills, this young estate is spearheading a dynamic movement that is now in full swing, creating single-vineyard wines via responsible farming, spontaneous fermentations, and long lees aging. Next, uncork La Marca’s flagship whites: the bracingly crisp, stony Capovolto and the luscious and creamy, cask-aged Passolento, which has the depth and class of many a much more prestigious (and expensive) wine. Don’t forget the red: Bastian Contrario is their charmingly rustic Montepulciano, perfect for serving chilled with grilled salsiccia, locally made prosciutto, or rabbit porchetta.
If Verdicchio is now enjoying a revival, it can thank eclectic visionary Stefano Antonucci for setting the wheels in motion thirty years ago. A banker by trade, Antonucci left his desk job to reinvest in the vineyards surrounding his hometown of Barbara, a half-hour’s drive inland of Senigallia. His success in crafting delicious wines at unthinkably low prices paved the way for ambitious newcomers like La Marca, and we are proud to offer some of his wines in these pages. His Colleleva Verdicchio is an Adriatic dream: lean and brisk on the palate, with trademark aromas of pine nut and lime zest, plus a sizzling saline finish. His reds are just as convivial and thirst-quenching—don’t miss the rare, lavender-scented Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, or the bold and juicy Rosso Piceno.
Senigallia is awash with great restaurants, and Pagaia should be your first stop for lunch. A bustling locale specializing in fresh seafood, it offers up pristine crudo platters, perfectly al dente pastas with the frutti di mare of your choice, and the day’s catch cooked up any which way. The wine list features countless local selections, including Verdicchios from La Marca and Colleleva.
After a restorative nap and espresso, a leisurely stroll through Senigallia’s cobblestone avenues, expansive piazzas, and narrow alleyways will get you to Sepia, where you’ve booked dinner. Niko, the chef, is a Sicilian transplant who has found a new place to share his art. His medium is fish, and on my visit he served a veritable masterpiece of handmade busiate with a tuna, caper, and wild fennel ragù. Despite a fine selection of Verdicchios, Niko will likely opt to pour you something from Sicily, and he won’t steer you wrong.
Finally, you must pay a visit to Paolo Brunelli, Senigallia’s resident gelato maestro. Like me, you will fall in love with Le Marche when you taste the world-class seafood and wine. But when you indulge in Brunelli’s award-winning artisanal gelato, you can truly say your love has been consummated.
Now through October 29, take 20% off selections from Le Marche. Visit our Berkeley shop or CLICK HERE and use coupon code MARCHE20 at checkout.
Whoever planted these old Grenache vines on one of Mount Etna’s lava fields made a masterful decision, matching grape, altitude, and soil…

Old Grenache vines
Buy this collection 3 bottles
Wines in this Collection

2019 Terre Siciliane Grenache “Vigna degli Architetti”
Italy | Sicily
Grottafumata’s first release from the “Vigna degli Architetti” delivers deep, ripe fruit with elegance and grace.

2019 Cannonau di Sardegna “Riserva Franzisca”
Italy | Sardinia
Sporting rich primary fruit, an intense granitic backbone, and tannins already mellowing from extended large cask aging, this monument to Sardinian viticulture delivers impressive power and authenticity.

2021 Côtes-du-Rhône “La Sagesse”
France | Southern Rhône
A masterpiece of old-vine Grenache—decant, or hold up to ten years in a cool place.
The first thing you’ll notice is how enchanting the wine’s floral aromas are. As you take a sip, though, the flowers fade and are replaced with el...
Buy this collection 2 bottles
Wines in this Collection

2022 Bourgueil Rosé
France | Loire
Pretty and elegant, with a taste of fresh peaches and nectarines, it is perfect for your summer table.

2021 Cahors
France | Southwest
If nearby Bordeaux is the polished and urbane one in the family, Cahors is the sneakily sophisticated but humbler country cousin, loaded with personality you’ll enjoy getting to know.
Perhaps more than any other region in France, Corsican wine has evolved and changed at breakneck speed these last few decades. While other regions hav...

Autumn in Figari, Corsica
Perhaps more than any other region in France, Corsican wine has evolved and changed at breakneck speed these last few decades. While other regions have seen their share of small shifts and changes, fifty years ago the spirit and essence of the wines of Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Loire, or the Rhône, for example, were similar to today. In that same period in Corsica, however, wine production first faced extinction and then suffered a misguided thrust toward nondescript and inexpensive table wines, until a small group of brave and dedicated pioneers painstakingly built from scratch what today has surpassed any level of quality the island has ever experienced before. The top domaines of Corsica now inspire awe around the world and are universally recognized for their uniqueness, soulfulness, and exceptional quality. What a long way to have come in such a short time! The pioneers responsible can be counted on a single hand, and our man in southern Corsica, Yves Canarelli, is most certainly one. Canarelli has brought a revival to Figari and neighboring Bonifacio, encouraging biodiversity in his vines on dry and difficult terrain, reintroducing forgotten grapes and techniques, all while sharing skills and being a source of tutelage and guidance to the next generation arriving in the region.
Buy this collection 3 bottles
Wines in this Collection

2021 Corse Figari Rosé
France | Corsica
A biodynamic, orange-zesty, multifaceted masterpiece from the most ancient growing region on the island.

2022 Bonifacio Blanc “Tarra di Sognu”
France | Corsica
Experience Bonifacio, one of Corsica's historic wine regions, through Canarelli's epic, age-worthy biancu.

2021 Corse Figari Rouge “Amphora”
France | Corsica
This brooding amphora-aged red is a tribute to ancient Corsican wines, as they were produced in Roman times.
Piemonte Forager’s Sampler
by Madison Brown
I’ve loved foraging since I was a kid. I have fond memories of snacking on freshly dug yampa roots in the high desert mountains and of crisp mornings picking wild plums, frosty leaves crunching underfoot. Just this week, walks with my dog have yielded handfuls of blackberries, and soon patches of golden chanterelles will awaken here in my neck of the redwoods.
The rich, rolling hills of Piemonte are a forager’s paradise…
Age-Worthy French Whites
by Dixon Brooke
The vines deliver grapes with the perfect balance of rich, smoky depth and hot stone minerality, built to age, with sublime aromas, textures, and flavors…
2020 Saumur Blanc “L’Échelier” • Thierry Germain 2020 Rully Blanc 1er Cru “Rabourcé” • Domaine A. & P. de Villaine 2020 Pinot Gris Grand Cru “Brand” • Albert Boxler
Cru Beaujolais
by Jane Augustine
In the natural wine world of “ethereal” Gamays, this one is flawless and buoyant, yet intensely perfumed…
2021 Brouilly “Reverdon” • Château Thivin 2021 Fleurie “Les Moriers” • Domaine Chignard 2021 Chiroubles “Cuvée Léa” • Guy Breton
A Travel Guide to Le Marche
by Anthony Lynch
When I rave about Le Marche (lay mar-kay), I’m more often than not met with a blank stare. But if gorgeous, unspoiled landscapes descending from the mountains to the sea, charming villages with more locals than tourists, a delectable local cuisine, and a burgeoning wine scene sound like something you might enjoy, then read on…
Mediterranean Grenache
by Dixon Brooke
Whoever planted these old Grenache vines on one of Mount Etna’s lava fields made a masterful decision, matching grape, altitude, and soil…
2019 Terre Siciliane Grenache “Vigna degli Architetti” • Grottafumata 2019 Cannonau di Sardegna “Riserva Franzisca” • Giovanni Montisci 2021 Côtes-du-Rhône “La Sagesse” • Domaine Gramenon
Values of the Month
by Tom Wolf
The first thing you’ll notice is how enchanting the wine’s floral aromas are. As you take a sip, though, the flowers fade and are replaced with elegant notes of strawberry…
2022 Bourgueil Rosé • Domaine de la Chanteleuserie 2021 Cahors • Clos La Coutale
Producer Spotlight
Clos Canarelli
by Chris Santini
Perhaps more than any other region in France, Corsican wine has evolved and changed at breakneck speed these last few decades. While other regions have seen their share of small shifts and changes, fifty years ago the spirit and essence of the wines of Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Loire, or the Rhône, for example, were similar to today. In that same period in Corsica, however, wine production first faced extinction and then suffered a misguided thrust toward nondescript and inexpensive table wines, until a small group of brave and dedicated pioneers painstakingly built from scratch what today has surpassed any level of quality the island has ever experienced before…
2021 Corse Figari Rosé • Clos Canarelli 2022 Bonifacio Blanc “Tarra di Sognu” • Clos Canarelli 2021 Corse Figari Rouge “Amphora” • Clos Canarelli
Kermit once said...

Kermit once said...
If you're looking for value, look where no one else is looking.
Inspiring Thirst, page 211