If Télégramme is more about fruit than stones, it is still undeniably Châteauneuf, expressing the nobility of carefully farmed Grenache from the Rhône’s finest terroirs.

A dry sparkler made exclusively from Clairette.

There’s a gentle veil of minerality, and the nose is expansive, making way for notes that are more spiced than fruity.

Full-bodied yet delicate, infused with the joie de vivre of the south of France.

This is about as quaffable as the region’s rouges get.

Truly classic Vieux Télégraphe, deep and powerful as usual, yet showing great finesse and class, almost an ethereal quality.

An abundance of violets and velvet, amid a cooling sensation of a cold spring on a hot day.

Clos La Roquète’s blanc is luscious, yet finishes nice and dry with striking acidity.

Clairette, an unsung hero of the south, is the main grape here, undoubtedly one of many key elements to this singular wine.

This dark, autumnal rosé is a beacon of tradition in a sea of paler styles.