Our relationship with the Leydier family in Beaumes-de-Venise goes back decades, to the late 1970s, when Kermit discovered their sublime Muscat after a visit to the village with Richard Olney. That sweet nectar was the lone bottling he imported from the family until 1999, when he showed up and, for the first time, they offered a taste of rouge from a foudre in their new cellar, recently carved out of the hillside. The Leydiers had owned and farmed vineyards of Grenache and Syrah for years, but they didn’t have space to do anything with the grapes, so they simply sold them to other producers in the village. It’s hard to believe now, twenty-five years later, because the Leydiers work wonders with the southern Rhône’s classic red varieties. Blending mostly Grenache and Syrah, along with a splash of Marselan and Merlot, this cuvée is their ultimate introduction to their corner of the Rhône called the Vaucluse. Fragrant and sneakily sophisticated, this country rouge teems with notes of black olive, iron, garrigue, and, in the background, dark fruit. Pair it with your favorite stew for a soulful feast.