Somewhat unique as far as red-wine regions go, Piedmont boasts three outstanding grape varieties that star in their own, distinct bottlings. Barbera—not to be confused with Barolo or Barbaresco, villages known for world-class Nebbiolo—is one of those grapes, and it is notable in its versatility. It can be fashioned into lighter vini da tavola, suitable for a lunch break, or more robust, complex cuvées that you want to sip throughout the night. Originating from a great terroir and having aged over a year according to superiore standards, this bottling from Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino belongs in the latter camp.
     With succulent fruit and refreshing acidity, it is remarkably full-flavored. It speaks boldly, asking to be paired with hearty winter meals or lighter spring fare, ensuring a delightful match thanks to its food-friendly nature. Notes of wild red fruit and a nice, firm tannin will match well with a variety of dishes, but I highly recommend Chris Lee’s recipe for squab and brussels sprouts.