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2023 Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo Superiore “Prünent”
Cantine Garrone
The most recognizable word on this wine’s label is Nebbiolo, but don’t let that give you any ideas—this red is not like others you’ve tasted. We’re technically still in Piedmont at Cantine Garrone, but it’s “Alto” Piemonte, over two hours away from Barolo country, near the Swiss border. The local term for Nebbiolo is Prünent, and after one sip, you’ll see why the distinction makes sense. The Garrone wines bring to mind all sorts of Alpine freshness—this one is vibrant, high-toned, and lengthy, with fragrant, velvety fruit that will make your eyes widen with pleasure. There’s a hint of smoke, a whiff of earth, and more to uncover over the duration of a long meal. I paired it with a chimichurri-marinated steak and rosemary-roasted potatoes, but for a future meal, I might try seared sausages and braised cabbage. At your table, as long as you choose something robust that won’t buckle under the intensity of a firm, confident wine, you’ll nail it.
—Jane Augustine
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Prünent (Nebbiolo) |
| Appellation: | Valli Ossolane |
| Country: | Italy |
| Region: | Piedmont |
| Producer: | Cantine Garrone |
| Winemaker: | Piermario, Roberto, Marco and Matteo Garrone |
| Vineyard: | 30-100 years old; 2 ha |
| Soil: | Sandy loam, gneiss |
| Aging: | Aged in stainless steel for 10 months followed by 12 months in 20HL neutral French oak botti |
| Farming: | Sustainable |
| Alcohol: | 13.5% |
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About The Producer
Cantine Garrone
Cantine Garrone was founded in 1921 by Luigi Garrone in Piemonte’s northernmost wine appellation, Val d’Ossola. Even now, this is one of the most wild and inaccessible parts of Piemonte, where many of the vines cling to mountainsides at incredibly steep inclines. Today, Luigi’s grandsons, Piermario and Roberto, run the winery alongside Roberto’s two sons, Marco and Matteo. The family has made it their life’s purpose to preserve and elevate the wines of Val d’Ossola, focusing in particular on Prünent, commonly understood to be the oldest existing clone of Nebbiolo. In the 1990s, they launched an effort to assist local farmers who were struggling to produce enough grapes for any viable commercial activity. They work with more than forty growers to combine their efforts and as a result, have saved the local winemaking tradition from certain extinction. In total, the family owns 3.5 hectares of vineyard and manages another 7.5 through this community of forty growers.
About The Region
Piedmont
Kermit’s love affair with the great reds of Piemonte dates back to the early days of his career: the very first container he imported from Italy, in fact, featured legendary 1971 and 1974 Barolos from Vietti and Aldo Conterno. Regular visits since then have seen our portfolio grow to now twelve Piemontesi estates, with a strong focus on the rolling hills of the Langhe.
Nebbiolo rules these majestic, vine-covered marl slopes, giving Italy’s most mystifyingly complex, nuanced, and age-worthy reds. When crafted via traditional production methods—long macerations and extensive aging in enormous oak botti—the powerful, yet incredibly refined Barolos and Barbarescos provide haunting aromatics of tar, raspberry, incense, tea, roses, and more. At times austere in their youth but well worth the wait, they pair beautifully with the hearty local cuisine starring veal in many forms, braised beef, pastas like tajarin and agnolotti, and of course, Alba’s famous white truffles.
Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Piemonte’s climate is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. Nebbiolo is only part of the story here: juicy, fruity Barberas and Dolcettos represent the bread and butter throughout the region, and other native grapes like Freisa, Croatina, and the white Arneis are also noteworthy. Value abounds in the Monferrato, while Alto Piemonte also has its share of thrills to provide.
Every corner of Piemonte is rich with tradition, especially when wine is concerned. It’s no wonder we have been singing the region’s praises for over forty years.
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Vintage Chart Mentality
Vintage Chart Mentality
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch