Notify me
At Châteauneuf, You Can’t Do Better
At Châteauneuf, You Can’t Do Better
by Kermit Lynch by Kermit Lynch
A Featured Selection from the Opening Our Cellar Doors Collection A Featured Selection from the Opening Our Cellar Doors Collection
2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape “La Crau”
2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape “La Crau”
Tasting with Frédéric and Daniel
Vieux Télégraphe cellar
Châteauneuf-du-Pape vines
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe France | Southern Rhône | Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This superb Vieux Télégraphe vintage is the example other southern French winemakers could look to when seeking where to go next. It is a breakthrough wine. Daniel Brunier said concisely what he, his brother Frédéric, and I were thinking as we tasted it after the bottling: “Truly classic Vieux Télégraphe, deep and powerful as usual, yet showing great finesse and class, almost an ethereal quality.”
The bouquet is as lovely an expression of the stony plateau of La Crau as I can remember. It brings to mind the magnificent 1978, 1981, and 1983 Vieux Télégraphes. At Châteauneuf, you can’t do better.
And pay attention to the remarkable tannin that supports the weight of the wine so well—you can actually use the word ethereal to describe the wine on the palate. Revel in that tannin—so present, so lovely. “Good grip!,” as Clive Coates likes to say.
Drink the 2013 young, old, and in between.
**Extremely limited quantities, maximum four bottles per purchase.**
Tasting with Frédéric and Daniel
Vieux Télégraphe cellar
Châteauneuf-du-Pape vines
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2013 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | 65% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 5% (Cinsault, Clairette, et al) |
| Appellation: | Châteauneuf-du-Pape |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Southern Rhône |
| Producer: | Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe |
| Winemaker: | Frédéric & Daniel Brunier |
| Vineyard: | 20 to 60 years |
| Soil: | Galets roulés (rounded riverbed stones) over molasse and rocky clay |
| Aging: | Wine rests in cuves for 10 months, and then ages for another 12 months in foudres, wine is bottled unfiltered, after 22 months of aging |
| Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
| Alcohol: | 14.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape “La Crau” HALF BOTTLE
France | Southern Rhône
It’s a gem, and you won’t be disappointed.
2024 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc “La Crau”
France | Southern Rhône
Clairette, an unsung hero of the south, is the main grape here, undoubtedly one of many key elements to this singular wine.
2023 Vacqueyras Rouge “Cuvée de Lopy”
France | Southern Rhône
Stony and smoky, and full of garrigue and black cherry, it is an epic wine that opens up wonderfully now.
2024 Gigondas
France | Southern Rhône
This Gigondas—densely concentrated and deeply opaque—is more refined than meets the eye.
2022 Gigondas “Racines”
France | Southern Rhône
The palate is dense and ripe, yet wonderfully smooth and elegant. Racines seems to tap into the history of Les Pallières, the prestige and the high-toned elegance.
2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape “Télégramme”
France | Southern Rhône
If Télégramme is more about fruit than stones, it is still undeniably Châteauneuf, expressing the nobility of carefully farmed Grenache from the Rhône’s finest terroirs.
2024 Côtes du Rhône Rouge
France | Southern Rhône
Dark-fruited, with fresh acidity and stony tannins, it’s about as versatile as reds come from the south of France.
2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape “La Crau”
France | Southern Rhône
There’s a gentle veil of minerality, and the nose is expansive, making way for notes that are more spiced than fruity.
2021 Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise HALF BOTTLE
France | Southern Rhône
Leydiers at Domaine de Durban are particularly proud of their Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a vin doux naturel, as they are among the last to craft it in the traditional style.
2024 Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge
France | Southern Rhône
Brambly, rustic, savory, and joyous, this is as perfect a house red from the Rhône as you’ll find.
About The Producer
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
One cannot think of Châteauneuf-du-Pape without thinking of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. The Brunier family is legendary in its own right, having been rooted to the plateau known as La Crau for over a century. The wines of Vieux Télégraphe evoke terroir in its purest form, reflecting the dramatic climate, the rough terrain, the sun exposure at a high altitude, the typicity of the varietals, and of course, the influence of their caretakers, the Brunier family. For many, La Crau is Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s grandest cru. The wines of V.T. are classic, displaying strength, rusticity, and tremendous longevity. Their goal is to find a harmony between aromatic complexity, tannic structure, and richness, which they achieve year after year.
More from Southern Rhône or France
2023 Vacqueyras Blanc “Un Sang Blanc”
Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux France | Southern Rhône
2024 Gigondas
Domaine de Durban France | Southern Rhône
2024 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse Rouge
Selected by Kermit Lynch France | Southern Rhône
2023 Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise
Domaine de Durban France | Southern Rhône
2024 Tavel “La Combe des Rieu”
Gaël Petit France | Southern Rhône
2023 Vacqueyras Rouge “Doucinello”
Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux France | Southern Rhône
2024 Côtes-du-Rhône Rouge “Il Fait Soif”
Maxime-François Laurent France | Southern Rhône
2022 Gigondas “Terrasse du Diable”
Domaine Les Pallières France | Southern Rhône
2023 Côtes-du-Rhône “La Sagesse”
Domaine Gramenon France | Southern Rhône
2021 Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise HALF BOTTLE
Domaine de Durban France | Southern Rhône
2023 Gigondas “Terrasse du Diable”
Domaine Les Pallières France | Southern Rhône
2022 Côtes-du-Rhône Rouge “Contre Couleur”
Domaine Gramenon France | Southern Rhône
2023 Vacqueyras Blanc “Un Sang Blanc”
Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux France | Southern Rhône
2024 Gigondas
Domaine de Durban France | Southern Rhône
2024 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse Rouge
Selected by Kermit Lynch France | Southern Rhône
2023 Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise
Domaine de Durban France | Southern Rhône
2024 Tavel “La Combe des Rieu”
Gaël Petit France | Southern Rhône
2023 Vacqueyras Rouge “Doucinello”
Domaine Le Sang des Cailloux France | Southern Rhône
2024 Côtes-du-Rhône Rouge “Il Fait Soif”
Maxime-François Laurent France | Southern Rhône
2022 Gigondas “Terrasse du Diable”
Domaine Les Pallières France | Southern Rhône
2023 Côtes-du-Rhône “La Sagesse”
Domaine Gramenon France | Southern Rhône
2021 Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise HALF BOTTLE
Domaine de Durban France | Southern Rhône
2023 Gigondas “Terrasse du Diable”
Domaine Les Pallières France | Southern Rhône
2022 Côtes-du-Rhône Rouge “Contre Couleur”
Domaine Gramenon France | Southern Rhône
Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch