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At Châteauneuf, You Can’t Do Better
At Châteauneuf, You Can’t Do Better
by Kermit Lynch by Kermit Lynch
A Featured Selection from the Opening Our Cellar Doors Collection A Featured Selection from the Opening Our Cellar Doors Collection
2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape “La Crau”
2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape “La Crau”
Tasting with Frédéric and Daniel
Vieux Télégraphe cellar
Châteauneuf-du-Pape vines
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe France | Southern Rhône | Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This superb Vieux Télégraphe vintage is the example other southern French winemakers could look to when seeking where to go next. It is a breakthrough wine. Daniel Brunier said concisely what he, his brother Frédéric, and I were thinking as we tasted it after the bottling: “Truly classic Vieux Télégraphe, deep and powerful as usual, yet showing great finesse and class, almost an ethereal quality.”
The bouquet is as lovely an expression of the stony plateau of La Crau as I can remember. It brings to mind the magnificent 1978, 1981, and 1983 Vieux Télégraphes. At Châteauneuf, you can’t do better.
And pay attention to the remarkable tannin that supports the weight of the wine so well—you can actually use the word ethereal to describe the wine on the palate. Revel in that tannin—so present, so lovely. “Good grip!,” as Clive Coates likes to say.
Drink the 2013 young, old, and in between.
**Extremely limited quantities, maximum four bottles per purchase.**
Tasting with Frédéric and Daniel
Vieux Télégraphe cellar
Châteauneuf-du-Pape vines
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2013 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | 65% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 5% (Cinsault, Clairette, et al) |
| Appellation: | Châteauneuf-du-Pape |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Southern Rhône |
| Producer: | Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe |
| Winemaker: | Frédéric & Daniel Brunier |
| Vineyard: | 20 to 60 years |
| Soil: | Galets roulés (rounded riverbed stones) over molasse and rocky clay |
| Aging: | Wine rests in cuves for 10 months, and then ages for another 12 months in foudres, wine is bottled unfiltered, after 22 months of aging |
| Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
| Alcohol: | 14.5% |
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About The Producer
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
One cannot think of Châteauneuf-du-Pape without thinking of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. The Brunier family is legendary in its own right, having been rooted to the plateau known as La Crau for over a century. The wines of Vieux Télégraphe evoke terroir in its purest form, reflecting the dramatic climate, the rough terrain, the sun exposure at a high altitude, the typicity of the varietals, and of course, the influence of their caretakers, the Brunier family. For many, La Crau is Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s grandest cru. The wines of V.T. are classic, displaying strength, rusticity, and tremendous longevity. Their goal is to find a harmony between aromatic complexity, tannic structure, and richness, which they achieve year after year.
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Vintage Chart Mentality
Vintage Chart Mentality
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch