For the folks at Vieux Télégraphe, staunch defenders of local terroir as well as the deep winemaking tradition that runs in their blood, every vintage is an opportunity to honor and build upon the work that began with Hippolyte Brunier in 1898. Through good times and bad, the Bruniers persisted, eking out the precious juice from the old vines on the commanding, stony plateau of La Crau. Today, a fifth generation has joined the domaine, as Nicolas and Edouard Brunier join forces with their fathers, bothers Frédéric and Daniel, to carry on.
Little has changed at VT over the decades: ever-precise vineyard management, picking at the exact right time, and a continual quest for finesse have yielded a long string of vintages defined by elegance and restraint. These wines consistently showcase silky Grenache fruit seasoned with herbes de Provence and always feature a savory, filtered-through-stones finish.
La Crau gave wines of total class in 2014 and 2013. The 2014 VT is a medium-bodied beauty with an ethereal quality that is all-too-rare in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The 2013, on the other hand, is a more classically structured wine—deep and concentrated with an intense minerality punctuating the whole.
With this mini-vertical, we encourage you to enjoy one of each in its youth and save one for the future. Who knows—by then, the seventh generation at VT could be in charge. –Anthony Lynch