The palate is dense and ripe, yet wonderfully smooth and elegant. Racines seems to tap into the history of Les Pallières, the prestige and the high-toned elegance.

This is about as quaffable as the region’s rouges get.

Grenache is joined by Syrah and a drop of Mourvèdre to create this delightful everyday red scented of herbes de Provence and ripe black cherry.

This dark, autumnal rosé is a beacon of tradition in a sea of paler styles.

Leydiers at Domaine de Durban are particularly proud of their Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a vin doux naturel, as they are among the last to craft it in the traditional style.

This lovely Muscat is full of fresh honeysuckle and ripe citrus fruit.

An abundance of violets and velvet, amid a cooling sensation of a cold spring on a hot day.

Dark-fruited, with fresh acidity and stony tannins, it’s about as versatile as reds come from the south of France.

Truly classic Vieux Télégraphe, deep and powerful as usual, yet showing great finesse and class, almost an ethereal quality.

It beckons you to follow Maxime-François’s advice: “Drink it when you are very, very thirsty!”