Just when you think you’ve seen it all in wine, life throws another curveball. In the spring of 2023, the herd of goats residing at Les Pallières broke free and ravaged the vineyards, feasting on tender young buds, to the horror of the overseeing Brunier family. Needless to say, those goats are no longer with us (fear not—they have been relocated, not turned into a delicious stew). This unfortunate incident, paired with a poor flowering of ancient Grenache vines, resulted in a record-low yield at Pallières, so all the remaining fruit—most of it from the high-lying Terrasse du Diable—was blended into a single bottling.
     I have never tasted a Pallières quite like this. Its perfume leaps from the glass, conveying alpine herbs and fragrant, juicy red fruit. The palate is supple and inviting, with a gourmandise I have yet to encounter in a young Pallières. Its expressiveness at this early stage and incredibly gentle tannin make it the vintage to enjoy now while more powerful years like 2021 and 2022 mature at a leisurely pace. The 2023 is truly a vintage like no other, from the bizarre start to the season to the unusual delicacy we find in the bottle today.