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A Charming and Rustic Red from the Dentelles’ Southern Slopes

A Charming and Rustic Red from the Dentelles’ Southern Slopes

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

2022 Beaumes-de-Venise Rouge

2022 Beaumes-de-Venise Rouge

Domaine de Durban   

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Domaine de Durban    France   |  Southern Rhône   |  Beaumes-de-Venise

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All it takes is a glance at Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route to understand the high esteem in which we hold the Dentelles de Montmirail in the southern Rhône valley and the appellations that surround this small chain of dramatic “teeth”-like peaks. Its western slopes are home to Gigondas, where Kermit and the Brunier family run Domaine Les Pallières. The southern slopes, meanwhile, descend into Beaumes-de-Venise, one of the region’s great crus for reds that show the spice, earthiness, and soul we love in our southern Rhône blends.
      The defining feature of the terroir in Beaumes-de-Venise is the soft, ochre Trias, a limestone soil that dates back to the earliest part of the Mesozoic era. Ordinarily, this soil would only be found thousands of feet underground, but as the Dentelles formed, they carried Triassic soil to the surface, where today it lends freshness and finesse to Beaumes-de-Venise’s reds. Add to this Durban’s prime position, perched high over the Rhône Valley, where the high elevation, cooler microclimate, and pine forests protecting the vines from fierce mistral winds all contribute to incredibly healthy and evenly ripened grapes. Evoking black fruit, garrigue, and spice, this rustic rouge is charming and versatile enough for long-simmering stews in the colder months and grilled chicken and sausages on the patio in these warmer months. 

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174

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