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Introducting Gaël Petit

Introducting Gaël Petit

by Anthony Lynch by Anthony Lynch

2018 Tavel “La Combe des Rieu”

2018 Tavel “La Combe des Rieu”

Gaël Petit   

Discount Eligible $36.00
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Gaël Petit’s family history is deeply intertwined with that of Tavel. Records show his ancestors inhabited the quaint, sunny Provençal village across the Rhône from Châteauneuf-du-Pape as far back as the sixteenth century, and his great-grandfather, a former mayor, played a major role in the creation of the Tavel AOC, granted in 1936.
     Gaël recalls growing up at the family domaine, its cellar full of massive foudres in which the wines were raised. These perdurable casks helped the family earn widespread recognition for its grandiose Tavels—the kind of wine, undoubtedly, that enchanted countless connoisseurs throughout history, from Louis XIV to Hemingway.
     By the 1980s, however, the traditional casks had all but disappeared from cellars across France, replaced by the dependable sparkle of stainless steel. Herbicides in the vineyard substituted tilling, laboratory yeasts colonized fermentation tanks, and other innovations facilitated the vigneron’s life to yield a reliably consistent, albeit standardized, product each vintage.
     Modern enology dictated winemaking when Gaël took the reins of the domaine in 1992, but he ultimately changed course, realizing a return to traditional ways was necessary for Tavel to relive its former glory. He began an organic conversion in the vineyards, then launched a micro-cuvée from the domaine’s oldest vines in its top limestone terroirs.
     For this new departure, Gaël opted for a whole-cluster, infusion-style vinification with native yeast, drastically reduced sulfur usage, allowing the wine to complete its malolactic fermentation, and bottled it without fining or filtration.
     The first edition of this exciting project, “La Combe des Rieu” is a Tavel whose intensity, complexity, and decisive sense of terroir have more in common with the regal reds of Châteauneuf than with southern France’s sea of generic rosés. Behind the historic label lies a wine of class, depth, and substance, bearing a rich bouquet of wild strawberry, flowers, garrigue, and sweet spices, culminating in a long, stony finale. This is Tavel the way it was meant to be, validating the appellation’s legendary standing as the “rosé of kings.”

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Old cob-webbed wine bottles

Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.