Vacqueyras seems to be  nally getting its due, and Serge Fe?rigoule—whom Kermit sought out following a tip from cookbook author Patricia Wells in the early 1990s—is largely responsible. Between Cha?teauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas, Vacqueyras doesn’t have the elevation of Gigondas or the same concentration of galets roule?s—those distinctive, rounded stones—as Cha?teauneuf-du-Pape, but it nevertheless has some terrific terroir, especially on the elevated Plateau des Garrigues, where all of Serge’s vines are planted in a mixture of red clay, limestone, and the aforementioned galets roule?s. Sang des Cailloux means “blood of the stones,” and the galets-ridden nature of the soil comes across in the mineral, stony aspect of this wine. As crucial as the terroir is Serge’s farming approach—organic for more than a decade and certified biodynamic since 2012—which gives the wine freshness it would not otherwise possess, particularly as temperatures soar higher and higher in the southern Rho?ne. Simultaneously deep and full of energy, the 2017 Doucinello is  oral and stony, with notes of lavender, red and black fruit, and olive. It is ready to drink now but will age grace- fully for at least ten to fifteen years.