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A Fresh Sicilian Red from a Desert of Limestone

A Fresh Sicilian Red from a Desert of Limestone

by Joanie Bonfiglio by Joanie Bonfiglio

2022 Eloro Nero d’Avola “Spaccaforno”

2022 Eloro Nero d’Avola “Spaccaforno”

Riofavara   

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Riofavara    Italy   |  Sicily   |  Eloro

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On July 25th, my colleague Anthony and I stood in Riofavara’s Spaccaforno vines in one-hundred-degree heat with not a cloud in the sky. The sun was absolutely blinding—dry and penetrating. In contrast, the wine Massimo Padova makes from these vines relays the entirety of a vintage’s story—not just the hot, intense ripening months. His bottling of Nero d’Avola paints the full picture of the year: it contains a crisp fall breeze, a lift from a cool spring rainstorm, a chilly winter’s evening, all within the finished product. Massimo calls the Spaccaforno “our interpretation” of Nero d’Avola. The 2022 vintage is balanced and fresh, a celebration of the grape, bursting with sour red cherries and a delightfully charming note of wild mint, known locally as mentuccia
     When asked about harvest, he told me it takes a whole month, which is incredibly long and painstakingly slow for such a small farm. He said many years ago he would follow commonly understood rules about brix levels (an indicator of sugar content), vegetation, and seed ripening to know when to pick. But now he relies solely on his own taste buds to tell him when it’s time. When the flavor of the grape is complex and long enough in his mouth, he knows the moment has come. In my opinion, Massimo is one of the great winemakers of modern Italian history. What he’s able to obtain from grapes planted in a desert of limestone is magical, if not heroic.

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About The Region

Sicily

map of Sicily

Italy’s southernmost region and the largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily has no shortage of sunshine to grow high-quality grapes on a yearly basis. It also does not lack a history of winemaking: since the Greeks settled here almost three millennia ago, the vine has played a major role in the island’s agricultural makeup. Production of cheap bulk wine for blending dominated much of its recent history until now, as we are witnessing a quality revolution that puts forth its great diversity and quality of terroirs, indigenous grape varieties, and local production methods.

While Sicily’s historical reputation is for sweet wines—Marsala and the Muscats of Pantelleria stand out—a number of dry whites and reds are enjoying the spotlight today. The cooler, high-altitude slopes of Etna, with its ashy volcanic soils, have seen an explosion of activity from producers both local and foreign; both whites (primarily from Carricante) and reds (Nerello Mascalese) here are capable of uncommon freshness and finesse. Other noteworthy wine regions are Eloro, where Nero d’Avola gives its best; Noto, an oasis of dry and sweet Moscatos; Vittoria, with its supple, perfumed Frappatos; and Salina, where Malvasia makes thirst-quenching dry whites and deliciously succulent passiti.

Countless foreign invasions over the centuries have given Sicilian architecture and cuisine a unique exotic twist, making it a fascinating destination for gourmands as well as wine importers. With a wealth of dedicated artisans proud to show off the riches of their land, you can bet there are many exciting things still to come from this incredible island.

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Inspiring Thirst

A good doctor prescribed the wine of Nuits-Saint-Georges to the Sun King, Louis XIV, when he suffered an unknown maladie. When the king’s health was restored the tasty remedy enjoyed a vogue at court. Lord, send me a doctor like that!

Inspiring Thirst, page 117

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