2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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This grand dry white is produced from Châteauneuf’s best terroir, the plateau of La Crau. Seemingly more hospitable to a flowing river than to a plot of grape vines, this alluvial plain covered with large, rounded stones is the secret to the character and longevity of Vieux Télégraphe in both colors. A blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourbelenc, and Roussanne, the Blanc is a wiry, stony, zesty southern Rhône white built to last. I recommend letting it lie for a few years in bottle before you begin to explore its charms.
|Blend:||40% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc, 15% Bourboulenc, 15% Roussanne|
|Producer:||Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe|
|Winemaker:||Frédéric & Daniel Brunier|
|Vineyard:||40 years average, 5 ha|
|Soil:||Alluvial deposits, Limestone, Silica, and Molasse (red clay) with galets roulés|
|Aging:||Wine rests in cement tank for 10 months, and then ages for another 12 months in foudres|
One cannot think of Châteauneuf-du-Pape without thinking of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. The Brunier family is legendary in its own right, having been rooted to the plateau known as La Crau for over a century. The wines of Vieux Télégraphe evoke terroir in its purest form, reflecting the dramatic climate, the rough terrain, the sun exposure at a high altitude, the typicity of the varietals, and of course, the influence of their caretakers, the Brunier family. For many, La Crau is Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s grandest cru. The wines of V.T. are classic, displaying strength, rusticity, and tremendous longevity. Their goal is to find a harmony between aromatic complexity, tannic structure, and richness, which they achieve year after year.
A good doctor prescribed the wine of Nuits-Saint-Georges to the Sun King, Louis XIV, when he suffered an unknown maladie. When the king’s health was restored the tasty remedy enjoyed a vogue at court. Lord, send me a doctor like that!
Inspiring Thirst, page 117
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