If the king of the southern Rhône—Grenache—married the queen of the northern Rhône—Syrah—and had a beautiful child that bore the best features of each, that prince would be Domaine Gallety’s red Côtes du Vivarais. Here, in the small commune of Saint-Montan, halfway between Cornas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Alain Gallety and his son David-Alexandre grow Syrah and Grenache and craft this rouge with equal parts of each. Syrah’s savoriness and notes of pepper, together with Grenache’s stoniness, are balanced by an open-knit structure and ripe juiciness that make this wine ready to drink today. Because Côtes du Vivarais is less well known than the storied appellations of the North and the South, this red stands among France’s best values. Pair it with grilled meat, roasted eggplant, or Chris Lee’sTomato and Cantal Cheese Galette for a sublime match.
The talented Alain Gallety began making wine in the Côtes du Vivarais alongside his father. Though the Galletys reside here, making their wines with pride, determination, and focus, their minds are frequently traveling to other regions in France, closely studying the techniques of their contemporaries. Alain takes every aspect of the process seriously. To grow the quality of grapes he wants, he farms his fifteen hectares of vineyards organically. The wines are then aged in Burgundian barrels, as they believe them to produce wines with finesse. Alain Gallety is indeed a man of vision. Domaine Gallety is a new acquisition to the KLWM portfolio, but one well-positioned with wines of such brightness, density, and impeccable balance.
The southern Rhône valley is Grenache country. It’s also known for its stones. With a viticulture history dating back well before the Popes arrived in the 12th century and one of France’s oldest appellations d'origine contrôlée, Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, the southern Rhône is unquestionably one of France’s best known and premier winegrowing regions. The wines have the pedigree and age-worthiness of Burgundy and Bordeaux, but with a rustic, Mediterranean character. Like most wines from southern France, the reds, whites, and rosés are blends. Filling out the Grenache for the reds and rosés, you’ll often find Syrah, Carignan, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault. The common white grape varieties are Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Viognier, Roussane, and Marsanne among others. From the alluvial riverbed stones found in Lirac, Tavel, and Châteauneuf to the limestone cliffs of the Dentelles de Montmirail that influence Beaumes-de-Venise (where you’ll find excellent Muscat), Vacqueyras, and Gigondas, great terroir abounds.
Kermit’s entrance in the region came in the mid 1970s on his first trip with Richard Olney, an American ex-pat and friend of Alice Waters. On that trip, Richard introduced Kermit to the Brunier family of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. Soon after, Kermit began importing the Brunier’s wines—their Châteauneuf-du-Pape “La Crau” bottling remains a staple of our portfolio today. In the late 1990s Kermit teamed up with the Brunier family to purchase the famed Gigondas estate, Domaine Les Pallières. More than 40 years later, we now import wines from fifteen southern Rhône domaines spanning the entire area of the region.
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine. 2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration. 3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them. 4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would. 5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174
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