Rising Stars and Living Legends
by Tom Wolf
© Jimmy Hayes
John Benda
© Joanie Bonfiglio
Nicolas Robert
© Jimmy Hayes
Jean-Charles Abbatucci in his vines
© Magali Cancel
Nino Caravaglio’s vines in Salina
© Joanie Bonfiglio
When you step inside all of their cellars or tour the vines with them, you realize that strong common threads run through each: incredible talent, thoughtfulness, and a spirit of constant probing to better understand one’s terroir and winemaking methods, no matter if they’re twenty-five or seventy-five years of age.
© Jimmy Hayes
John Benda
© Joanie Bonfiglio
Nicolas Robert
© Jimmy Hayes
Jean-Charles Abbatucci in his vines
© Magali Cancel
Nino Caravaglio’s vines in Salina
© Joanie Bonfiglio
When you step inside all of their cellars or tour the vines with them, you realize that strong common threads run through each: incredible talent, thoughtfulness, and a spirit of constant probing to better understand one’s terroir and winemaking methods, no matter if they’re twenty-five or seventy-five years of age.
Rising Stars and Living Legends
by Tom Wolf
The twelve wines in this collection are divided into two categories: six bottles from vignerons we consider to be living legends, and six bottles from rising stars. If you tasted all twelve wines blind, or without reading about them first, you wouldn’t be able to tell which wines fall into which camp. The same could be said upon visiting the growers. When you step inside any of their cellars, and tour their vines, you realize that strong common threads run through each: incredible talent, thoughtfulness, and a spirit of constant probing to better understand one’s terroir and winemaking methods, no matter their age—be it twenty-five or seventy-five years old.
Perhaps no one in this group represents these qualities more than Alain Pascal of Domaine du Gros ’Noré in Bandol. A man as thick, sturdy, and deeply rooted to the soil of Provence as his old Mourvèdre vines, Alain began bottling his own wines in 1997, naming his domaine after his late father, Honoré, and producing old-fashioned and rustic-in-the-best-sense Bandol from early on. Over the nearly three decades since, however, his style has evolved for the better. Today, his cellar is filled with bottles from countless regions near and far, which he has not only enjoyed but learned from. In recent years, power and concentration have gradually faded from the forefront of his cuvées, allowing freshness and finesse to shine.
Many of the other “living legends” in this collection have shown similar evolutions throughout their careers. While early in his career, for example, Guy Breton was among the last to harvest, but now, he is among the first in the region to pick and does everything else during the vinification process to prioritize finesse over ripeness and extraction.
The younger generation of rising stars also show, of course, great curiosity and constant refining, but what’s most striking about these six producers is their commitment to fresh, unique, or inspired interpretations of their regions. John Benda, for example, embraces his high elevation—the highest in the Brunello zone—and forests surrounding his vines to draw out a singular elegance from Sangiovese. Meanwhile, Roch Sassi of Clos Saint-Joseph leans into terroir features of his pre-Alps sliver of Provence that lend themselves more to a continental, cool-climate blanc than one evoking the warm Mediterranean coast. He also embraces malolactic fermentation, giving his whites and rosés a little more creaminess and body than you’ll often find in the Côtes de Provence’s lighter, airier cuvées.
Whether made by a rising star or living legend, these twelve bottles are among the most beautiful and exciting wines made in France and Italy today.
The rising stars include Joseph de Maistre of Prieuré de Saint-Céols, Mickael Olivon of Domaine Les Hauts Lieux, Alex Foillard, Roch Sassi of Clos Saint-Joseph, J.G. Benda, and Bastien Jolivet.
The living legends are Alain Pascal of Domaine du Gros ’Noré, Nino Caravaglio of Vignedimare, the Robert brothers of Domaine Robert-Denogent, Jean-Charles Abbatucci, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Jamet.
Wines In The Collection
Clos Saint-Joseph France | Provence
This gorgeous blend of Vermentino, Ugni Blanc, Sémillon, and Clairette is both fleshy and mineral-driven.
Domaine Les Hauts Lieux France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes
While it has a crystalline edge, there is a surprising dollop of sun, heft, and deep, creamy notes of white flowers and citrus fruit.
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy
Limited to vintages where poor weather prevents individual bottlings, Climat renders all the top qualities of the Robert family’s holdings.
Domaine Comte Abbatucci France | Corsica
Rich, exotic, and appealing—a monument to the grandeur of the forgotten Corsican varietals.
Domaine Jolivet France | Northern Rhône
It is a real-deal northern Rhône roasted-slope Syrah that walks the tightrope perfectly between creamy fruit, meaty tannins, and fresh spine.
France | Provence
This gorgeous blend of Vermentino, Ugni Blanc, Sémillon, and Clairette is both fleshy and mineral-driven.
France | Savoie, Bugey, Hautes-Alpes
While it has a crystalline edge, there is a surprising dollop of sun, heft, and deep, creamy notes of white flowers and citrus fruit.
France | Burgundy
Limited to vintages where poor weather prevents individual bottlings, Climat renders all the top qualities of the Robert family’s holdings.
France | Corsica
Rich, exotic, and appealing—a monument to the grandeur of the forgotten Corsican varietals.
France | Northern Rhône
It is a real-deal northern Rhône roasted-slope Syrah that walks the tightrope perfectly between creamy fruit, meaty tannins, and fresh spine.
France | Northern Rhône
The pinnacle of traditional Côte-Rôtie being produced today.
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