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2022 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba “Sörì Santa Lucia”
Il Palazzotto
Il Palazzotto’s Paolo Olivero, with his son, Daniele
Winter in Piedmont
The single best wine for an Italian meatball sandwich is a Dolcetto. Il Palazzotto’s “Santa Lucia” is the work of someone who really knows their way around a grapevine, and I love the way it sticks to tradition.
I grew up not far from Philadelphia, and as a kid I had a number of relatives who regularly took me on the short, 30-minute trip there for sporting events—I had great seats with my dad for the 1960 NFL Championship game between the Philadelphia Eagles and Green Bay Packers. I traveled there for meals, historical visits, and school outings of every type. I loved Philadelphia, but nothing about it was more important to me than the Italian meatball sandwich.
It was only after I began dating Barbara—we were both 15—that I learned there was a legitimate way to make a proper meatball sandwich. That recipe was almost sacred to her mother, for Barbara’s father had grown up not far from ‘Philly’ himself, and he was equally demanding about this local culinary treasure. Barbara’s mother had learned from her mother and, in turn, passed the recipe along to her daughter. During our first year of marriage, we typically enjoyed an Italian meatball sandwich once a week. It fit our budget well—we were students living in a nearby Garret—and it tasted delicious. Barbara graciously replicated the recipe for me to pass along after I mentioned it not long ago. It’s real simple, but like much in life, the ingredients are crucial:
1 pound lean Ground Beef
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
Grated Parmesan Cheese (use good Reggiano, just not too old)
Marinara sauce (buy it or make it, but use the best one you can find)
Preparation:
• Add salt and pepper to the ground beef and combine using your hands.
• Shape about 12 meatballs using your hands. (I like it if a few of them are flat.)
• Sauté the meatballs in olive oil until they are completely browned on the outside.
• Add the meatballs to the warming marinara sauce and continue cooking until the sauce is hot and the meatballs are thoroughly cooked. The longer this step, the better the outcome. Six hours was not uncommon for Barbara’s mother.
• Warm, and then very lightly toast a soft-sweet roll, slit down the center, with halves separated so they are still joined but each is able to lay almost flat.
• Add the sauced meatballs to the roll, careful not to add too much sauce—you don’t want it to run out of the sandwich, just to cover it.
• Sprinkle on some freshly grated Reggiano.
Stand back and admire your work. The single best wine for an Italian meatball sandwich is a Dolcetto. Il Palazzotto’s “Santa Lucia” is the work of someone who really knows their way around a grapevine, and I love the way it sticks to tradition.
—Bruce Neyers
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2022 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Dolcetto |
| Appellation: | Dolcetto di Diano d'Alba |
| Country: | Italy |
| Region: | Piedmont |
| Producer: | Il Palazzotto |
| Winemaker: | Paolo Olivero |
| Vineyard: | Planted in 1979, 1988, 1992 ; 1.5 ha |
| Soil: | Chalky Marl |
| Aging: | Aged in stainless steel tank until August or September of year following vintage |
| Farming: | Sustainable |
| Alcohol: | 13.5% |
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About The Producer
Il Palazzotto
About The Region
Piedmont
Kermit’s love affair with the great reds of Piemonte dates back to the early days of his career: the very first container he imported from Italy, in fact, featured legendary 1971 and 1974 Barolos from Vietti and Aldo Conterno. Regular visits since then have seen our portfolio grow to now twelve Piemontesi estates, with a strong focus on the rolling hills of the Langhe.
Nebbiolo rules these majestic, vine-covered marl slopes, giving Italy’s most mystifyingly complex, nuanced, and age-worthy reds. When crafted via traditional production methods—long macerations and extensive aging in enormous oak botti—the powerful, yet incredibly refined Barolos and Barbarescos provide haunting aromatics of tar, raspberry, incense, tea, roses, and more. At times austere in their youth but well worth the wait, they pair beautifully with the hearty local cuisine starring veal in many forms, braised beef, pastas like tajarin and agnolotti, and of course, Alba’s famous white truffles.
Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Piemonte’s climate is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. Nebbiolo is only part of the story here: juicy, fruity Barberas and Dolcettos represent the bread and butter throughout the region, and other native grapes like Freisa, Croatina, and the white Arneis are also noteworthy. Value abounds in the Monferrato, while Alto Piemonte also has its share of thrills to provide.
Every corner of Piemonte is rich with tradition, especially when wine is concerned. It’s no wonder we have been singing the region’s praises for over forty years.
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.
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