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2019 Saint-Joseph Rouge
Jean-Claude Marsanne
In a 1998 newsletter, Kermit praised Saint-Joseph’s accessible charm: “It seems miraculous, a big, juicy, fleshy, flavorful Syrah that you don’t have to wait on, that you should not wait on.” Marsanne’s 2019 would be KL’s cup of tea, the kind of Saint-Jo to dig into right away: smoky, layered, lush, and laced with violet, bay leaf, and black olive. At table, its fine tannin and granite core marry well with indulgent snacks like duck pâté, or alongside pan-seared mains like garlicky lamb chops or steak au poivre. Though you needn’t wait to open, once you have, it would be foolish not to take your time with this one.
—Madison H. Brown
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2019 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Syrah |
Appellation: | Saint-Joseph |
Country: | France |
Region: | Northern Rhône |
Producer: | Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne |
Winemaker: | Jean-Claude Marsanne |
Vineyard: | Planted in 1940-45, 1950-1960, 1995-98, 6.5 ha |
Soil: | Granite |
Aging: | Fermented in stainless steel tanks. Aged for 12-15 months in 600L demi-muids (70-80%) and 228L barrels (20-30%) |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 15% |
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About The Producer
Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne
The Marsanne family, as their name attests, has a long and deep-rooted history in the northern Rhône, in particular around Mauves, the birthplace of the Saint-Joseph appellation. In 1920, current owner Jean-Claude’s grandfather, Jean-Pierre, became the first in the family to focus solely on vineyards—no easy task given the impossibly steep slopes of Mauves, where everything must be worked by hand and pickaxe. Jean-Pierre started with just a few small parcels, selling off his crop to prestigious négociants, and was quickly renowned throughout the region for the exceptional quality of his grapes. His untimely passing in 1950 forced his son, Jean, to quit school at age 16 to take over the domaine. He continued his father’s work in earnest, his vineyards often being recognized amongst the village’s best, not just for their exposition and soil, but also for the attention to detail young Jean paid to each vine. The grape sales financed some small land purchases in and around Mauves, and the domaine slowly grew to 3 hectares. In 1970, Jean made the leap to begin making and bottling the wines himself. Over time, a small, but loyal following developed, especially among France’s fine dining establishments, which valued the finesse and elegance of Marsanne’s cuvées. The domaine remained largely unknown on the international scene, overlooked by many journalists and clients who sought out bolder, more extracted styles.
Since taking over from Jean in 1991, Jean-Claude has continued to add select new parcels, growing the domaine to 9.6 hectares. While still mostly focused on Syrah from the hallowed terroir of Mauves, he now farms a few small plots of Marsanne for his Saint-Joseph blanc, as well as some Viognier and Syrah in the Ardèche hills west of the village. He also inherited a superb plot of Crozes-Hermitage that once belonged to his grandmother.
Kermit came across Jean Marsanne during his early adventures in France in the 1970s, and was struck by the wines’ aromatic complexity and Jean’s meticulous care for the vineyards. He even managed to import a few bottles in those early days. Kermit and the Marsannes lost touch and life went on, until decades later when Kermit spotted a familiar label while dining out in Paris. The bottle was ordered, uncorked, and an old collaboration was renewed.
Jean-Claude holds tightly to the traditions of his family. These include farming the steepest parcels by hand, as was done by his grandfather; using indigenous yeasts for slow, natural fermentations, like his father taught him; and aging his wines extensively on fine lees, releasing each cuvée at its most expressive moment. The reunion with Marsanne is one of great pride on both sides.
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2020 Saint-Joseph Rouge
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2022 Condrieu “Chéry”
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2023 Saint-Joseph Blanc “Clef de Sol”
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2022 Saint Joseph Rouge “Les Ribaudes”
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2023 Vin de France Blanc “Cuvée de Louis”
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2021 Côte-Rôtie “Besset”
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Kermit once said...

Kermit once said...
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174