Memories, Wines, and Reflections
© Gail Skoff
© Gail Skoff
Memories, Wines, and Reflections
In our July newsletter, Kermit reflects on the old days after cleaning up his home office and finding his earliest tasting notes. Particularly inspired by his first wine-buying trip to Paris, he notes that on May 3, 1974, he walked into the wine shop of Monsieur Jean-Baptiste Chaudet, who “generously opened at no charge so many great bottles for tasting and devoted such a big chunk of time to me, just me, of all people…”
I found that I preferred a perfectly made so-called “little” wine to a mediocre version of a great appellation. In France, grand cru refers to the vineyard, the land. Not the wine. You might find a masterpiece from Chinon or Cornas and a disappointing Chambertin. In fact, my experiences include exactly such incidents.
After visiting Chaudet, I was never content to look for wines only where everyone else was looking, and later I would be the first to import natural wines into the United States. Not a bad first day in France!
And I left with a copy of Chaudet’s little book, Marchand de Vin, even though I couldn’t read French. Once I could understand it, I read it, and here is where this could be interesting for you. Monsieur Chaudet wrote about lesser-known white Burgundies. Listen closely: “And sincerely, I began to prefer them to the grands crus, because they are lighter, more ethereal, and thus, easier to assimilate. I am, I must say, a big eater and I like to quench my thirst.” He points out that he can drink more wine, “not put the brakes on,” and drink much more cheaply from white Burgundies outside the grand cru zones. I grew to see what he meant, and ever since have offered my clientele a large menu of so-called “lesser” Burgundian appellations. See the list of current offerings at the end of these reflections.
Read the full piece here.
Wines In The Collection
Domaine Montanet-Thoden France | Burgundy
Valentin’s Galerne blanc is a divine rendition of pure, chiseled Chardonnay, bearing notes of orchard fruit, citrus, and oyster shells.
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils France | Burgundy
Pinot Beurot is the Burgundian name for their local strand of Pinot Gris. It is unique and delicious and showcases an interesting bit of Burgundy’s history.
Roland Lavantureux France | Burgundy
Displaying both the oyster shell quality we love about Chablis and the sunny orchard fruit notes that make Bourgogne blancs so delicious.
Domaine François Lumpp France | Burgundy
August Club Bianco ~ A bright, chalky personality full of energy and thirst-quenching savor.
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy
Bursting with energy and joy, this wine is bound to bring out the best of your inner bon vivant.
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy
Classy, pure, and precise Chardonnay, evoking freshly crushed apples, crushed stones, and citrus zest.
France | Burgundy
Valentin’s Galerne blanc is a divine rendition of pure, chiseled Chardonnay, bearing notes of orchard fruit, citrus, and oyster shells.
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils
France | Burgundy
Pinot Beurot is the Burgundian name for their local strand of Pinot Gris. It is unique and delicious and showcases an interesting bit of Burgundy’s history.
France | Burgundy
Displaying both the oyster shell quality we love about Chablis and the sunny orchard fruit notes that make Bourgogne blancs so delicious.
France | Burgundy
Lumpp’s blanc offerings may be small, but they are mighty.
France | Burgundy
August Club Bianco ~ A bright, chalky personality full of energy and thirst-quenching savor.
France | Burgundy
Bursting with energy and joy, this wine is bound to bring out the best of your inner bon vivant.
France | Burgundy
Classy, pure, and precise Chardonnay, evoking freshly crushed apples, crushed stones, and citrus zest.
More Collections
A Standout Trilogy from the Loire
The soils at Domaine de Reuilly rest on the prized Kimmeridgian limestone, a geological chain that runs through nearby Sancerre as well as Chablis and southern Champagne. This limestone is characterized by its high content of marine fossils dating back 150 million years and is known for producing exceptional wines across several appellations…
Nothing Taken Out
You have probably heard us applaud many of our vignerons for bottling unfiltered. Kermit even earned a reputation for importing wines that had not been subject to filtration, going so far as to request a special unfiltered bottling for the US from many producers following years of comparative tastings with domaines such as Tempier and Vieux Télégraphe…
Kermit’s Best Bargains
For five decades, Kermit has sought out France and Italy’s highest-quality selections at all price levels, so we can imbibe thoughtfully crafted wines without breaking the bank. Budget-friendly yet reliably delicious…
A Classic, Vibrant Vintage from Famille Savary
Certain wine estates are all about the story: centuries of family production, obscure heirloom grape varieties, perilous vertical vineyards, radical production methods... With Domaine Savary, forget the fluff and romantic backstory. Focus instead on what’s in your glass: delicious, vibrant, classic wines that place this among the most consistent, reliable Chablis to be found…
Arretxea in Irouléguy
Oh, how far Irouléguy, the hidden gem of French Basque country, has come! Once upon a time, not so long ago, a local joke went something like this: “How do you say vinegar in Basque? Irouléguy!” Vines covered hardly any ground, and you could count the growers on a single hand. Enter the Riouspeyrous family…
New Arrivals
Here is a collection of recent arrivals. Every week, we’ll be adding a dozen or more new arrivals, so check back often for your favorite classics or new discoveries!
The Carpe Vinum Collection
An ever-changing offering of wines that are just about to sell out; one last opportunity to seize a range of selections before they disappear from our shelves forever.
50th Anniversary Merchandise
When the esteemed French wine artist Michel Tolmer created beautiful artwork for our 50th anniversary, we knew right away that we had to feature it on a few select items of merch. After spending maybe a little too much time researching the options, we landed on a classy, leather-strap cap, a comfortable t-shirt made from 100% cotton, and a tote made with incredibly sturdy, fair-trade, and organic cotton by a certified B corp that invests in the livelihoods of women and farmers of India, featuring three wine sleeves and two other compartments for all of your other needs!
Recent Wine Club Selections
Our five wine clubs feature our best values from France and Italy as well as complex and cellar-worthy wines.