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A Bourgogne Blanc with One Foot in Chablis

A Bourgogne Blanc with One Foot in Chablis

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

2022 Bourgogne Tonnerre

2022 Bourgogne Tonnerre

Roland Lavantureux   

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Roland Lavantureux    France   |  Burgundy   |  Bourgogne

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Among the two hundred or so producers we work with in France and Italy, perhaps no one has transformed their domaine as comprehensively—and tastefully—in the last decade as brothers Arnaud and David Lavantureux. Shortly after joining their father, who had produced excellent Chablis and Petit Chablis for decades, Arnaud and David added a handful of beautiful premier and grand cru cuvées to their lineup, quickly turning 4 Rue Saint-Martin in Lignorelles into one of the region’s most respected addresses. But rather than simply acquire holdings in Chablis’s obvious heavy hitters, they’ve been more creative, identifying vineyards throughout Chablis and beyond full of extraordinary promise.
     In the last few years, for instance, the brothers have turned their sights to Tonnerre, a small and long-overlooked village twenty kilometers east of Chablis, which teems with incredible potential for beautiful Chardonnay. Much of this land stretches across the same Kimmeridgian bedrock as Chablis but the soil along the surface is more limestone-heavy, imbuing its Chardonnay with more roundness and easy-going charm. What you get then, in the Lavantureux brothers’ new Bourgogne Tonnerre, is a white wine that has both the Kimmeridgian oyster shell quality we love so much about Chablis and the sunny and generous, fleshy orchard fruit notes that make the best Bourgogne blancs so approachable and delicious. Pour it alongside grilled lobster—or your favorite white fish—along with mushroom skewers and cornbread for a memorable summer feast.

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About The Region

Burgundy

map of Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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Vintage Chart

Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch

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