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2023 Sancerre
Domaine Roger Neveu
Sancerre undoubtedly represents one of the world’s best areas for growing Sauvignon Blanc, but even here, site plays paramount importance. The sleepy town, just west of the Loire River, is surrounded by gently rolling hills, with tidy vineyard rows covering every conceivable surface save the occasional hilltop village.
However, not all vineyards are created equal: differences in exposure, slope, and altitude—along with minor variations in soil type—give drastically distinct wines from one plot to the next. The Neveu family is fortunate to own land in the Clos des Bouffants, an unusually steep parcel with a very poor, thin soil composed of rocky limestone. Facing due south, the Sauvignon here receives generous sunshine to produce an ample, concentrated wine.
True to its terroir, it possesses striking nerve and minerality that underscore the mouthfilling citrus flavors. This is serious Sancerre made by a family whose roots in the region date back to the twelfth century.
For an exquisite pairing, try Chris Lee’s recipe for Dungeness crab with linguine.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2023 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Sauvignon Blanc |
Appellation: | Sancerre |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Domaine Roger Neveu |
Winemaker: | Éric & Jean-Philippe Neveu |
Vineyard: | 20 years average, 18 ha |
Soil: | Limestone |
Aging: | Wine aged for 3 months before first racking, aged for 8 to 12 months in total |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 13% |
More from this Producer or Region

2022 Sancerre Rouge “Le Chant de l’Archet”
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The Chotards are some of the lucky few who have Sancerre parcels that are ideal for growing Pinot Noir, and theirs have been planted to Pinot for well over fifty years, so the vines are at full maturity.

2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
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2022 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
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It fills the mouth with suspicions of honeysuckle and pulpy stone fruits, all while maintaining classic notes of iodine and sea breeze that make this the vinous equivalent of tidepooling.

2022 Sancerre Blanc “Pierre François Xavier Vieilles Vignes”
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The oak adds a grain and level of class and backbone that raises this cuvée a step above the domaine’s classic Sancerre bottling.

2021 Chinon
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It is fresh and buoyant enough for casual fare yet has the stuffing to accompany heartier dishes, while its vivid raspberry fruit makes it extremely approachable today, notwithstanding its medium-term aging potential.

2023 Chinon Rosé
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April Club Gourmand ~ Matthieu Baudry captures both youthful fruit and energizing mineral textures with this rosé.

2023 Chinon “Les Granges”
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Les Granges is the Baudry cuvée to drink in its youth, while the perfume of rose petals and brambly berries is at its most vivid and vibrant.

2021 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
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2015 Chinon “Les Petites Roches” MAGNUM
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Given light treatment in the cellar, this wine shows off Cabernet in its most delicate, charming form.

About The Producer
Domaine Roger Neveu
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
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2021 Chinon Blanc “Les Charmes”
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2022 Vin de France Rouge “Le Martray”
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2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches” Blanc
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2023 Chinon Rosé
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2024 Bourgueil Rosé “La Ritournelle”
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2023 Vouvray
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2019 Bourgueil “Les Perrières”
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2021 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
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2022 Sancerre Blanc “Pierre François Xavier Vieilles Vignes”
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2015 Vouvray “La Moelleuse”
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2020 Saumur-Champigny “Franc de Pied”
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2021 Chinon Blanc “Les Charmes”
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2022 Vin de France Rouge “Le Martray”
Grange Saint Sauveur France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches” Blanc
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2019 Vouvray “Bois Guyon”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2023 Chinon Rosé
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil Rosé “La Ritournelle”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2023 Vouvray
Champalou France | Loire
2019 Bourgueil “Les Perrières”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2021 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2022 Sancerre Blanc “Pierre François Xavier Vieilles Vignes”
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire
Kermit once said...

Kermit once said...
Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.
Inspiring Thirst, page 312
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