Notify me
2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
Domaine Michel Brégeon
Muscadet is also generally considered an oyster wine, but this cuvée is Fred Lailler’s masterpiece that transcends any pigeonholing that sometimes happens with these whites from the western Loire. Named for one of the region’s most prized crus that sits atop a very special soil called gabbro, Gorges boasts an incredible texture and tension imparted by this decomposed, blue-green igneous rock, seventy-year-old vines, and years-long aging on the lees. Moules marinières or any kind of seafood pasta are matches made in heaven.
—Tom Wolf
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2018 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Melon de Bourgogne |
| Appellation: | Muscadet |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Domaine Michel Brégeon |
| Winemaker: | Fred Lailler |
| Vineyard: | 50 years average, 7.8 ha total |
| Soil: | Gabbro |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 12% |
More from this Producer or Region
2021 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
France | Loire
With floral aromas and fine-grained tannins, it already showcases its charms.
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
France | Loire
Gorges boasts an incredible texture and tension imparted by decomposed, blue-green igneous rock, seventy-year-old vines, and years-long aging on the lees.
2024 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
France | Loire
Classic Muscadet aromas endure, but there’s a complexity here that’s uncommon for an appellation known for its simple oyster wines.
2024 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
France | Loire
Peppery and bright, earthy and juicy all at once.
2024 Vouvray “Pierres Rousses”
France | Loire
This wine is deep and textural, with serious presence on the palate and a dry, flinty finish.
2022 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Réserve”
France | Loire
When you smell it, keep in mind that no other wine, besides a Melon de Bourgogne grown in the gabbro soil of Gorges, could possibly smell like this one does.
Vouvray Brut
France | Loire
Made from Chenin Blanc in the Champagne method, this cuvée is the quintessential apéritif sparkling wine, with notes of pear and a fine bead.
2025 Bourgueil Clairet “Avis de Vin Fort”
France | Loire
Fresh and punchy Cabernet Franc from fun-loving Catherine and Pierre Breton. Drink young, drink chilled, drink plenty.
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson “La Molette”
France | Loire
A subtly floral nose and textured mouthfeel seal the deal. This is off-the-charts Muscadet.
2021 Vin de France Blanche
France | Loire
This skin-contact wine is redolent of blood orange and hyssop—a perfect apéritif for olives and anchovies.
About The Producer
Domaine Michel Brégeon
Michel Brégeon is part renegade, part crusader, and full-blown terroirist, ardently defending the Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine terroir. Thanks to his deep understanding of the land, he plays the game much differently than the region’s caves cooperatives and negociants, who produce en masse and lose the subtlety of the appellation. He worked for his family’s domaine before setting out on his own in 1975. When his father retired in 1989, he gave his remaining vineyard land to Michel. Today, Michel farms seven hectares of vineyards in clay, silica, and gabbro soils. Gabbro is old, blue-green, volcanic rock, rarely found in vineyard land. Formed by magma eruptions under the ocean floor, it imparts intense complexity to Michel’s wines.
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
2024 Chardonnay
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Les Grézeaux”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2023 Sancerre “Les Coutones”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2025 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2021 Bourgueil “Les Perrières”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2025 Jasnières
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2022 Chinon Blanc “Les Charmes”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2021 Saumur-Champigny “Franc de Pied”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2016 Jasnières “Chant de Vigne”
Christine de Mianville France | Loire
2025 Val de Loire Rouge Grolleau
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Cuvée des Bénédictins”
Prieuré de Saint Céols France | Loire
2024 Chardonnay
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Les Grézeaux”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2023 Sancerre “Les Coutones”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2025 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2021 Bourgueil “Les Perrières”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2025 Jasnières
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2022 Chinon Blanc “Les Charmes”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2021 Saumur-Champigny “Franc de Pied”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2016 Jasnières “Chant de Vigne”
Christine de Mianville France | Loire
2025 Val de Loire Rouge Grolleau
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Cuvée des Bénédictins”
Prieuré de Saint Céols France | Loire
Vintage Chart Mentality
Vintage Chart Mentality
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch