Notify me
2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
Domaine Michel Brégeon
Muscadet is also generally considered an oyster wine, but this cuvée is Fred Lailler’s masterpiece that transcends any pigeonholing that sometimes happens with these whites from the western Loire. Named for one of the region’s most prized crus that sits atop a very special soil called gabbro, Gorges boasts an incredible texture and tension imparted by this decomposed, blue-green igneous rock, seventy-year-old vines, and years-long aging on the lees. Moules marinières or any kind of seafood pasta are matches made in heaven.
—Tom Wolf
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2018 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Melon de Bourgogne |
| Appellation: | Muscadet |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Domaine Michel Brégeon |
| Winemaker: | Fred Lailler |
| Vineyard: | 50 years average, 7.8 ha total |
| Soil: | Gabbro |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 12% |
More from this Producer or Region
2024 Chinon “Beaux Monts”
France | Loire
Sourced from the village of Beaumont, it is utterly delicious, with a perfect balance of fruit and earth.
2021 Vin de France Blanche
France | Loire
This skin-contact wine is redolent of blood orange and hyssop—a perfect apéritif for olives and anchovies.
2024 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
France | Loire
Classic Muscadet aromas endure, but there’s a complexity here that’s uncommon for an appellation known for its simple oyster wines.
2022 Saumur Champigny “Terres Chaudes”
France | Loire
Thierry has perfected the art of coaxing this Cabernet Franc’s soulfulness and elusive finesse into bottle.
Vouvray Brut
France | Loire
Made from Chenin Blanc in the Champagne method, this cuvée is the quintessential apéritif sparkling wine, with notes of pear and a fine bead.
2021 Vin de France Blanc “Chenin Centenaire”
France | Loire
Fermented and aged in barrel and bottled unfiltered, it features a delightful kiss of oak on the long, bracing, mouth-watering finish.
2025 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
France | Loire
Exotically perfumed with hints of guava, musk, and clove, it finishes dry and quite flinty.
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson “La Molette”
France | Loire
A subtly floral nose and textured mouthfeel seal the deal. This is off-the-charts Muscadet.
2023 Saumur Blanc “L’Échelier”
France | Loire
This dry Chenin Blanc is etched from the white limestone beneath—crystalline, pure, and chiseled.
2022 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Réserve”
France | Loire
When you smell it, keep in mind that no other wine, besides a Melon de Bourgogne grown in the gabbro soil of Gorges, could possibly smell like this one does.
About The Producer
Domaine Michel Brégeon
Michel Brégeon is part renegade, part crusader, and full-blown terroirist, ardently defending the Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine terroir. Thanks to his deep understanding of the land, he plays the game much differently than the region’s caves cooperatives and negociants, who produce en masse and lose the subtlety of the appellation. He worked for his family’s domaine before setting out on his own in 1975. When his father retired in 1989, he gave his remaining vineyard land to Michel. Today, Michel farms seven hectares of vineyards in clay, silica, and gabbro soils. Gabbro is old, blue-green, volcanic rock, rarely found in vineyard land. Formed by magma eruptions under the ocean floor, it imparts intense complexity to Michel’s wines.
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
2023 Chinon “Le Domaine”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2023 Quincy “Vieilles Vignes”
Domaine Trotereau France | Loire
2025 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2024 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2023 Sancerre “Racines”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2025 Bourgueil Clairet “Avis de Vin Fort”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2025 Sancerre Rosé
Hippolyte Reverdy France | Loire
2022 Vin de France Rouge “Le Martray”
Grange Saint Sauveur France | Loire
2025 Val de Loire Sauvignon Blanc “Unique”
Domaine du Salvard France | Loire
2025 Jasnières “Cuvée du Silex”
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2025 Sancerre Rosé
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Le Domaine”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2023 Quincy “Vieilles Vignes”
Domaine Trotereau France | Loire
2025 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2024 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2023 Sancerre “Racines”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2025 Bourgueil Clairet “Avis de Vin Fort”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2025 Sancerre Rosé
Hippolyte Reverdy France | Loire
2022 Vin de France Rouge “Le Martray”
Grange Saint Sauveur France | Loire
2025 Val de Loire Sauvignon Blanc “Unique”
Domaine du Salvard France | Loire
2025 Jasnières “Cuvée du Silex”
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2025 Sancerre Rosé
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.
Inspiring Thirst, page 236