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2021 Toscana Rosso “Pietrafocaia di Sopra”
J.G. Benda
Pietrafocaia di Sopra is a high-elevation parcel in the woods named for the abundant flintstone littering the vineyard surface. A streak of pure limestone in the subsoil imparts a chiseled energy to this wine, a single-vineyard Brunello in reality that Benda has chosen to label as a (far from simple!) Tuscan red wine. This exceptional site truly imparts its unique soil signature to the wine, and the 2021 is a masterpiece: high-intensity, salivating, with impressive concentration and length. There’s a new guy in town!
**Extremely limited quantities, limit three bottles per customer**
—Joanie Bonfiglio
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2021 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Sangiovese |
| Appellation: | Toscana IGT |
| Country: | Italy |
| Region: | Tuscany |
| Producer: | J.G. Benda |
| Winemaker: | John Benda |
| Vineyard: | Planted in mid 1990s; 1 ha |
| Soil: | Limestone, galestro |
| Aging: | Aged for 28 months in 20 - 25 hL French and Slavonian oak botti |
| Farming: | Biodynamic (practicing) |
| Alcohol: | 14% |
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About The Producer
J.G. Benda
After developing a passion for fine wines and the stories behind them, London-born John Benda quit his job in finance and rededicated himself to learning all about wine. He made the leap and moved to Montalcino, where he spent two years learning the ins and outs of Brunello production. He then purchased an 18-hectare plot of untouched forest containing two 1-ha vineyard plots. It is truly an exceptional terroir, isolated deep in the woods at the highest point of the Brunello zone on soils rich in sand, limestone, and rocky galestro.
With his partner Zoë, John restructured the vineyards and introduced biodynamic methodologies.They spend every possible moment working their vines by hand in an effort to produce top-quality fruit, then use low-intervention, traditional methods in the cellar. John and Zoë produce energetic Sangiovese of incredible purity and vibrancy from their vineyards high in the woods. This young Montalcino prodigy is already making waves, and it is evident that J.G. Benda has a bright future crafting stunning wines from a lost corner of Tuscany.
About The Region
Tuscany
Perhaps no region is tied to Italy’s reputation as a producer of fine wine as much as Tuscany. Since Etruscan times, viticulture has played a prominent role in this idyllic land of rolling hills, and the Tuscan winemaking tradition remains as strong as ever today. With a favorable Mediterranean climate, an undulating topography offering countless altitudes and expositions, and a wealth of poor, well-draining soils, conditions are ideal for crafting high-quality wines. Add to that the rich gastronomical tradition—Tuscany is home to some of the country’s finest game, pastas, salumi, and cheeses—and you have the blueprint for a world-class wine region.
This is Sangiovese territory; in fact, it is arguably the only place in the world where Sangiovese reaches a truly regal expression. In spite of a rocky history with fluctuations in quality, traditionally produced Chianti has reclaimed its status as one of the country’s most reliable, food-friendly reds, while the rapid rise of Brunello di Montalcino shows the grape’s potential for grandiose, opulent reds allying power and finesse. Traditionally-minded growers have stuck to using only indigenous grape varieties and employing techniques like aging in massive wooden casks known as botti, creating wines of terroir that shine at the Tuscan table.
Tuscan wines have had a place in our portfolio since Kermit’s first visit in 1977. While the names of the estates have changed, the spirit of those first unfiltered Chiantis he imported live on through our current selections.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch