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Marino Colleoni is a man of interesting contrasts: he meticulously crafts tiny quantities of world-class Brunello from vineyards the size of a modest garden, but when it’s time for lunch, he instead opts for a jug of funky white wine made by a friend, apparently his pairing of choice for a selection of artisanal cheeses and chain-smoked cigarettes. I perplexedly partook in sipping the curiously cloudy solution, eager to live like the locals but admittedly a bit confused as to why one of Marino’s majestic reds wasn’t swirling around in my glass instead. As you’ll see with his Rosso from the high-elevation, north-facing slopes of Montalcino, this man means business when it comes to making old-fashioned Sangiovese. Grown organically and aged in Slavonian oak botti, this one is loaded with elegant bright cherry fruit highlighted by floral nuances and subtle gamey undertones. I’ll take that over his buddy’s dubious home brew any day.
|Producer:||Podere Sante Marie|
|Winemaker:||Luisa & Marino Colleoni|
|Vineyard:||Planted in 1998, 1.5 ha total|
|Aging:||18-month elevage in Slavonian oak barrels ranging from 5 to 25 hL and from 3 to 10 years old|
Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.