A Deeper Shade of Pink
by Anthony Lynch
© Marley Lynch
© Marley Lynch
A Deeper Shade of Pink
by Anthony Lynch
The time has long come for us to change the way we think about—and drink—rosé wines. Today, we will definitively dismantle the long-held fallacy that lighter is better by shining a deserved spotlight on the world’s excellent darker-hued rosés. Long shunned in favor of their salmon counterparts, these wines are just as deserving of a spot in your beverage rotation for summer and beyond: not only does their fuchsia robe glimmer spectacularly when illuminated by a bright ray of sunshine, but they can be just as refreshing as the palest of rosés, while often boasting the structure to complement a wider range of food options.
While paler rosés are often lighter in body, darker rosés span a wide diversity of styles based on grape variety and production methods. Consider La Tour Vieille’s “Rosé des Roches” from Collioure: while this Catalan thirst-quencher does not lack in color nor structure, it has the brightness and crunchy fruit to make for a delightful apéritif, especially alongside salt-cured anchovies and briny olives. On the other hand, with Terre del Vescovo’s Campania rosato, just a short period of skin contact suffices to draw significant color and body from inky-black Aglianco berries. It is one of several rosés we are offering that has benefitted from some bottle age, and it behaves almost like a red wine.
As you’ll see, some of these wines blur the boundaries between rosé and red. Despite our natural inclination to categorize, we suggest appreciating them for what they are: beautiful to look at and delicious to drink, no matter what we call them. Gaël Petit’s old-vine Tavel, for example, comes from France’s only all-rosé appellation; Gaël notes, however, that Tavel was historically considered a light red of great finesse. In a nod to the region’s illustrious past, he opted for a whole-cluster fermentation lasting several days, yielding a wine with a profound depth of color, aroma, and flavor. Not quite a rosé, but not quite a red, it is simply Tavel.
Similarly, the southern Italian selections below represent traditional wine styles from the lower part of the boot, which producers like I Pástini in Puglia and Steiger-Kalena in Molise have chosen to honor rather than follow the latest trend. Such deep and robust, yet utterly mouthwatering rosati are perfectly suited to summer fare like sliced tomatoes with basil and mozzarella, assorted salumi, fresh seafood, and even grilled meats. Yet another reason to embrace the full rosé spectrum and savor the style in all its diverse shapes, sizes, and colors.
Wines In The Collection
Antoine Arena France | Corsica
Just when I think I’ve seen it all, this wine comes along and surprises me! It’s not a typical rosé, nor is it a typical light red wine. Instead, it occupies a wonderful space between the two!
Steiger-Kalena Italy | Molise
Offers an absolutely electric perfume loaded with bright notes of pomegranate, sour cherry, and fresh strawberry, while the palate delivers bracing acidity and a chiseled, chalky finish.
France | Corsica
Just when I think I’ve seen it all, this wine comes along and surprises me! It’s not a typical rosé, nor is it a typical light red wine. Instead, it occupies a wonderful space between the two!
Italy | Molise
Offers an absolutely electric perfume loaded with bright notes of pomegranate, sour cherry, and fresh strawberry, while the palate delivers bracing acidity and a chiseled, chalky finish.
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