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2023 Vouvray “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton
Given the Breton family’s reputation as bon vivants and natural wine pioneers, so much attention is paid to their wide range of red wines that we sometimes forget to include their sophisticated Vouvray in the conversation. Complex and bone-dry, this old-vine Chenin evokes grapefruit, green apple, and herbs, and chez moi it paired perfectly with grilled cod.
—Tom Wolf
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Chenin Blanc |
| Appellation: | Vouvray |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Catherine & Pierre Breton |
| Winemaker: | Catherine & Pierre Breton |
| Vineyard: | 40 years, 5 ha |
| Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
| Aging: | There is no maloactic fermentation and the wine is bottled in the spring following harvest |
| Farming: | Biodynamic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 13% |
More from this Producer or Region
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Unique in its combination of honeyed richness and flinty verve. Hard to resist on its own, but you might also try serving it with salty-sweet yakitori or buffalo chicken wings.
2021 Bourgueil “La Dilettante”
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A delicate, aromatic red in the “drink now!” vein.
About The Producer
Catherine & Pierre Breton
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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2024 Vouvray
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2020 Saumur Champigny “Outre Terre”
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2023 Coteaux du Loir Rouge “Cuvée du Rosier”
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2019 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
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2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
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2024 Sancerre Rosé
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire
2020 Vin de France Rouge Cabernet Franc “Huguette”
Grange Saint Sauveur France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Les Grézeaux”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2024 Savennières
Château d'Epiré France | Loire
2024 Saumur Blanc “L’Insolite”
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2020 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2019 Vouvray “Bois Guyon”
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2024 Vouvray
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch