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2023 Chinon “Les Grézeaux”
Bernard Baudry
One of my favorite corners in Baudry’s tasting room (second only to their gallery wall of local pairing menus from celebrations of the last century) is an illuminating display of soil samples from all of their vineyards. A geological rainbow, this cross-section offers a glimpse below the surface of the differences in terroir we usually perceive only in our glasses. Les Grézeaux comes from a deep gray, gravelly clay that hosts the family’s oldest—over sixty-five-year-old—vines. This luxurious Chinon tastes fresh, brambly, and lived-in, like the loose weave of a well-worn sweater.
—Jane Augustine
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Cabernet Franc |
| Appellation: | Chinon |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Bernard Baudry |
| Winemaker: | Matthieu & Bernard Baudry |
| Vineyard: | 65 years, 3 ha |
| Soil: | Gravel |
| Aging: | Aged for twelve months in barrel and are not fined or filtered |
| Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
| Alcohol: | 12.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
2023 Chinon Blanc
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2021 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
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2024 Sancerre
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2021 Vin de France Rosé Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Les Arceaux”
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Intensely dry and mineral, the structured Les Arceaux is a bottle to pair with a meal rather than to drink as an apéritif.
2024 Vouvray “La Dilettante”
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Delicate, precise, and succulent at the same time, this beautiful blanc will pair well with fresh seafood and light summer salads and pastas.
2021 Chinon “Le Clos Guillot”
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Le Clos Guillot is a powerhouse, an earthy, feral wine that throws sediment like it’s been aging for thirty years.
2021 Chinon “La Croix Boissée”
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This is the grandest bottling of Cabernet Franc from one of Chinon’s most outstanding producers.
2023 Sancerre “Les Cris”
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Simply gorgeous, the Cris is sublimely perfumed, generous on the palate, and long and saline on the elegant finish.
2021 Saumur-Champigny “Franc de Pied”
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This Saumur Champigny is electric from the first scent of roses to the juxtaposition of textured tannic grip and weightlessness on the palate.
2024 Chinon “Les Granges”
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Les Granges is the Baudry cuvée to drink in its youth, while the perfume of rose petals and brambly berries is at its most vivid and vibrant.
About The Producer
Bernard Baudry
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
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2021 Vin de France Blanc “Chenin Centenaire”
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2024 Vouvray “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
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2024 Saumur Champigny “Cuvée Domaine”
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2024 Reuilly Pinot Noir
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2023 Sancerre “Les Coutones”
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2024 Vouvray “Les Fondraux”
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2022 Sancerre “Hameau de Reigny”
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2021 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
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2019 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
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2020 Chinon “Clos du Chêne Vert”
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2023 Saumur Mousseux “Bulles de Roche”
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2021 Vin de France Blanc “Chenin Centenaire”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2024 Vouvray “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Saumur Champigny “Cuvée Domaine”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Reuilly Pinot Noir
Domaine de Reuilly France | Loire
2023 Sancerre “Les Coutones”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2024 Vouvray “Les Fondraux”
Champalou France | Loire
2022 Sancerre “Hameau de Reigny”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2021 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2019 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174