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2023 Chinon “Les Grézeaux”
Bernard Baudry
One of my favorite corners in Baudry’s tasting room (second only to their gallery wall of local pairing menus from celebrations of the last century) is an illuminating display of soil samples from all of their vineyards. A geological rainbow, this cross-section offers a glimpse below the surface of the differences in terroir we usually perceive only in our glasses. Les Grézeaux comes from a deep gray, gravelly clay that hosts the family’s oldest—over sixty-five-year-old—vines. This luxurious Chinon tastes fresh, brambly, and lived-in, like the loose weave of a well-worn sweater.
—Jane Augustine
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Cabernet Franc |
| Appellation: | Chinon |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Bernard Baudry |
| Winemaker: | Matthieu & Bernard Baudry |
| Vineyard: | 65 years, 3 ha |
| Soil: | Gravel |
| Aging: | Aged for twelve months in barrel and are not fined or filtered |
| Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
| Alcohol: | 12.5% |
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About The Producer
Bernard Baudry
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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2023 Jasnières
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Vouvray Brut “La Dilettante”
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2022 Jasnières “Dyane”
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2021 Bourgueil “Les Perrières”
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2025 Jasnières “Cuvée du Silex”
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2022 Chinon Blanc “Les Charmes”
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2021 Saumur-Champigny “Franc de Pied”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2025 Chinon Rosé
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2024 Sancerre
Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy France | Loire
2023 Quincy “Vieilles Vignes”
Domaine Trotereau France | Loire
2021 Vin de France Blanche
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2023 Jasnières
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171