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2022 Vin de France Rosé “Faustine”
Domaine Comte Abbatucci
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Jean-Charles Abbatucci and his daughter, Faustine
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Biodynamics in the vineyard
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Wild maquis
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Jean-Charles and Faustine Abbatucci
Just a few miles inland from Corsica’s southwestern coast, surrounded by craggy granite cliffs, lush woodlands, and olive groves, Jean-Charles Abbatucci’s land is replete with fragrant shrubs and animals roaming among the vines. Jean-Charles took over his family’s domaine in the early ’90s from his father, a botanist specializing in grapevines, who spent his time traveling to remote corners of Corsica in search of native varieties to salvage and propagate. Immersed in this education from a young age, Jean-Charles learned the value of preserving the island’s heirloom grapes, about how they are best adapted to the climate, and how older vines and their deep root structures help to maintain a healthy vineyard.
Named after his daughter, Faustine, Abbatucci’s Rosé is brimming with maquis, the equivalent of mainland France’s garrigue–think myrtle, immortelle, heather, and rockrose. Made from mostly Sciaccarellu grown in solid granite just a twenty minute drive from the Mediterranean Sea, his grapes are infused with seaspray and stone, and the resulting rosé boasts a glistening, sunkissed quality, loaded with sour cherry and pomelo citrus.
Jean-Charles’ motto, referring to his holistic approach to winemaking, points to the extra work and patience required to achieve great wines of place: take ten steps towards nature, and she’ll take one step towards you. Those odds might deter a less devoted vigneron, but Jean-Charles remains unfazed, and utterly enthusiastic. He calls the practice of reviving ancient, biodynamic farming techniques “historical viticulture,” and uses it to harness the heritage of l'Île de beauté in his wines. Historical, yes, and a touch heroic, too.
—Jane Augustine
Wine Type: | Rosé |
Vintage: | 2022 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Sciaccarellu |
Country: | France |
Region: | Corsica |
Producer: | Domaine Comte Abbatucci |
Winemaker: | Jean-Charles Abbatucci |
Vineyard: | 20 years |
Soil: | Granite |
Farming: | Biodynamic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 14% |
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About The Producer
Domaine Comte Abbatucci
About The Region
Corsica
I first set foot on the island in 1980. I remember looking down from the airplane window seeing alpine forest and lakes and thinking, uh oh, I got on the wrong plane. Then suddenly I was looking down into the beautiful waters of the Mediterranean. Corsica is a small, impossibly tall island, the tail of the Alp chain rising out of the blue sea.—Kermit Lynch
Kermit’s first trip to the island proved fruitful, with his discovery of Clos Nicrosi’s Vermentino. More than thirty years later, the love affair with Corsica has only grown as we now import wines from ten domaines that cover the north, south, east, and west of what the French affectionately refer to as l’Île de Beauté.
Corsica is currently experiencing somewhat of a renaissance—interest has never been higher in the wines and much of this is due to growers focusing on indigenous and historical grapes found on the island. Niellucciu, Sciarcarellu, and Vermentinu are widely planted but it is now common to find bottlings of Biancu Gentile and Carcaghjolu Neru as well as blends with native varieties like Rossola Bianca, Minustellu, or Montaneccia.
As Kermit described above, Corsica has a strikingly mountainous landscape. The granite peaks top out above 9,000 feet. The terroir is predominantly granite with the exception of the Patrimonio appellation in the north, which has limestone, clay, and schist soils.The wines, much like their southern French counterparts make for great pairings with the local charcuterie, often made from Nustrale, the native wild boar, as well as Brocciu, the Corsican goats milk cheese that is best served within 48 hours of it being made.
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Kermit once said...
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Kermit once said...
Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.
Inspiring Thirst, page 312
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