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2023 Vin de France Blanc “Faustine”

Domaine Comte Abbatucci
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Just as Burgundian Chardonnay is known for being sensitive to the nuances of place, Vermentinu yields notably different wines between—and within—the appellations of Corsica. In the granite hills above the capital city of Ajaccio, white wines are among the island’s most delicate, typically featuring gentle floral suggestions and a charming peachiness. Born halfway between mountains and the sea, Jean-Charles Abbatucci’s biodynamically grown Vermentinu also presents a whisper of salinity, making it a lovely apéritif or the ideal match to Mediterranean-inspired antipasti.

Anthony Lynch

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Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2023
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Vermentinu
Appellation: Vin de France
Country: France
Region: Corsica
Producer: Domaine Comte Abbatucci
Winemaker: Jean-Charles Abbatucci
Vineyard: 40 years
Soil: Granite
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Alcohol: 14.5%

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About The Region

Corsica

map of Corsica

I first set foot on the island in 1980. I remember looking down from the airplane window seeing alpine forest and lakes and thinking, uh oh, I got on the wrong plane. Then suddenly I was looking down into the beautiful waters of the Mediterranean. Corsica is a small, impossibly tall island, the tail of the Alp chain rising out of the blue sea.—Kermit Lynch

Kermit’s first trip to the island proved fruitful, with his discovery of Clos Nicrosi’s Vermentino. More than thirty years later, the love affair with Corsica has only grown as we now import wines from ten domaines that cover the north, south, east, and west of what the French affectionately refer to as l’Île de Beauté.

Corsica is currently experiencing somewhat of a renaissance—interest has never been higher in the wines and much of this is due to growers focusing on indigenous and historical grapes found on the island. Niellucciu, Sciarcarellu, and Vermentinu are widely planted but it is now common to find bottlings of Biancu Gentile and Carcaghjolu Neru as well as blends with native varieties like Rossola Bianca, Minustellu, or Montaneccia.

As Kermit described above, Corsica has a strikingly mountainous landscape. The granite peaks top out above 9,000 feet. The terroir is predominantly granite with the exception of the Patrimonio appellation in the north, which has limestone, clay, and schist soils.The wines, much like their southern French counterparts make for great pairings with the local charcuterie, often made from Nustrale, the native wild boar, as well as Brocciu, the Corsican goats milk cheese that is best served within 48 hours of it being made.

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174

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