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A Hedonistic Country Quaffer from Châteaneuf-du-Pape

A Hedonistic Country Quaffer from Châteaneuf-du-Pape

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

2020 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse Rouge “Le Pigeoulet”

2020 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse Rouge “Le Pigeoulet”

Famille Brunier   

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For decades, the Brunier brothers of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe have produced a world-class rouge from the southern Rhône Valley’s most prestigious appellation, Châteaneuf-du-Pape. With their Pigeoulet, they prove just as capable of mastering the hedonistic country quaffer, which teems with northern Provence’s most irresistible qualities: the succulent red and black fruit, stony core, hint of black olive, and garrigue.
     The Bruniers farm the Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre that make up this cuvée on two distinct parcels: the first situated on the east side of the Rhône, near Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and the second farther east, along the lower, southwest-facing slopes of Mont Ventoux. The Bruniers’ vast experience in crafting elegant reds in this southern climate is on full display in this bottling. This was a warm year in the region, but the ethereal Pigeoulet showcases remarkable finesse and drinkability. Pair it with roast chicken or lamb, or alongside an assortment of hummus, baba ganoush, falafel, black olives, and the freshest pita you can find. 

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Where the newsletter started

Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

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