Félix Meyer’s old-vine Pinot Blanc from the slopes of Katzenthal, in Alsace, has long overdelivered.

From the exceedingly fine and elegant nose to the creamy and lacy texture, the overall balance and touch, and its hint of salty freshness, this wine shows how understated, finessed, and downright glorious dry Pinot Gris can be in Alsace.

That grapes can be cajoled and fashioned to make such a liquid is miraculous. This aroma is beyond belief.

Note the intensity, the power, but the delicate touch on the finish.

Powerhouse intensity, concentration, kaleidoscopic flavor, unique terroir: in short, one of the great Riesling terroirs in all of northern Europe.

Shop for sausages, a jar of sauerkraut, some mustard, and this thoroughbred of a Riesling. I predict even greater fireworks in another seven years or so. Highest recommendation.

Dense and chiseled, this is serious Riesling, a wine whose deep complexity has only just begun to emerge beneath layers of chewy flesh, stone, and steely acidity.

Almond, butter, orange confit, white truffle—it’s all there in the awesome bouquet—then you experience the unctuous, dense palate with a texture to write home about.

The incredibly complex aromas soar out of the glass with an underpinning note of rose petal, the full-bodied and almost oily texture is classic.

Meyer’s Riesling Réserve is a mélange of different terroirs around his domaine in Katzenthal, and is a precise, dry, minerally Riesling loaded with character.