Louis Barruol is one of the rare experts of both northern and southern Rhône terroirs. Having originally made a name for himself through his grand Gigondas cuvée, he approached Kermit fifteen years ago to collaborate on a handful of appellations to the north, specifically in Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, and—perhaps most ambitiously—Crozes-Hermitage.
      This AOC has long lived in the shadow of its more illustrious neighbor due to the fact that, decades ago, the French wine authorities expanded Crozes-Hermitage, adding large swaths of flat, undistinguished vineyard sites to the appellation, thereby ruining the reputation of the historic hillside terroir. Believing in the enduring possibilities of the great, Louis and Kermit identified some of the most promising parcels among the appellation’s 1,200 hectares. They settled on vineyards north of Hermitage and just east of the Rhône River near the commune of Gervans, planted on granite hills that give the wine both strength and finesse.
      For Louis, what stands out about the 2018 Tiercerolles—a blend of eight lieux-dits—is the savory sensation in the glass, and a freshness in a region where the grapes aren’t generally endowed with much acidity. The result is a truly standout Crozes: this noble, versatile, and age-worthy northern Rhône red will serve you well year-round. Try steak au poivre or sautéed wild mushrooms for a perfect pairing.