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2017 Vittoria Calabrese

Portelli

At 13% alcohol, this is not a massive Nero d’Avola...


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Next time you feel inspired to try a simple new recipe, cook down some onions, garlic, and tomatoes (canned is fine) in olive oil. Add capers and pitted olives to the mix, then sprinkle in some dried herbs like oregano and thyme. A pinch of hot chili flakes will not hurt, if desired. Spoon the sauce over grilled swordfish or tuna, or add it to the pasta of your choice.
            You have just created the perfect pairing for Portelli’s Calabrese. Hailing from Vittoria, in southern Sicily, this red is the ideal foil to savory, flavorful Mediterranean-inspired fare. Calabrese, also known as Nero d’Avola, has a remarkable capacity to retain acidity in a decidedly baking climate, allowing Portelli’s 2017 to coat the palate with sumptuous notes of black cherry and blackberry all while staying light on its feet, revealing a radiant brightness to contrast the succulent dark fruit. At table, these qualities are paramount.
           Alessandro Portelli no longer filters his wines, preserving a fleshy, pulpy texture that lingers on the taste buds. This is not a massive Nero d’Avola—at thirteen percent alcohol, it is elegant, and does not overpower simple, casual meals. Your rapidly assembled Mediterranean feasts are certain to reach new levels.

Anthony Lynch


Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2017
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Calabrese
Appellation: Vittoria Calabrese
Country: Italy
Region: Sicily
Producer: Portelli
Vineyard: 4.5 ha, Planted in 1998
Soil: Clay
Farming: Organic (certified)
Alcohol: 13%

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About The Region

Sicily

map of Sicily

Italy’s southernmost region and the largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily has no shortage of sunshine to grow high-quality grapes on a yearly basis. It also does not lack a history of winemaking: since the Greeks settled here almost three millennia ago, the vine has played a major role in the island’s agricultural makeup. Production of cheap bulk wine for blending dominated much of its recent history until now, as we are witnessing a quality revolution that puts forth its great diversity and quality of terroirs, indigenous grape varieties, and local production methods.

While Sicily’s historical reputation is for sweet wines—Marsala and the Muscats of Pantelleria stand out—a number of dry whites and reds are enjoying the spotlight today. The cooler, high-altitude slopes of Etna, with its ashy volcanic soils, have seen an explosion of activity from producers both local and foreign; both whites (primarily from Carricante) and reds (Nerello Mascalese) here are capable of uncommon freshness and finesse. Other noteworthy wine regions are Eloro, where Nero d’Avola gives its best; Noto, an oasis of dry and sweet Moscatos; Vittoria, with its supple, perfumed Frappatos; and Salina, where Malvasia makes thirst-quenching dry whites and deliciously succulent passiti.

Countless foreign invasions over the centuries have given Sicilian architecture and cuisine a unique exotic twist, making it a fascinating destination for gourmands as well as wine importers. With a wealth of dedicated artisans proud to show off the riches of their land, you can bet there are many exciting things still to come from this incredible island.

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Kermit inspecting wine barrels

For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.