2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
This cuvée isn’t what comes to mind when most people think of Bordeaux. Stuffy men in suits, haute cuisine, tannic reds requiring sickly new oak treatment or absurd bottle age to be approachable . . . forget all that. Bénédicte and Grégoire Hubau of Château Moulin are part of a new school of winemaking in the Bordelais, emphasizing sustainable viticulture and minimal intervention in the cellar. In this sense, the cuvée Piverts represents their most revolutionary bottling: made without added sulfur, it is a transparent reflection of Merlot grown in the limestone and clay of Fronsac, in the heart of Bordeaux’s right bank. We suggest decanting this youthful “natural wine” to best appreciate its purity of fruit and the honest expression of terroir it provides. Fun, gulpability, deliciousness—no, these are not words typically associated with Bordeaux.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2017 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Merlot |
Appellation: | Fronsac |
Country: | France |
Region: | Bordeaux |
Producer: | Château Moulin |
Winemaker: | Bénédicte & Grégoire Hubau |
Vineyard: | 45 years avg., 0.5 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
Aging: | One-year élevage in cement cuve |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 12.5% |
Château Moulin Pey-Labrie France | Bordeaux | Canon-Fronsac
Château Moulin France | Bordeaux | Fronsac
Château Belles-Graves France | Bordeaux | Lalande-de-Pomerol
Domaine de l’Alliance France | Bordeaux
Château Moulin Pey-Labrie France | Bordeaux | Canon-Fronsac
Domaine de l’Alliance France | Bordeaux | IGP Atlantique
Often considered the wine capital of the world, Bordeaux and its wines have captured the minds, hearts, and wallets of wine drinkers for centuries. For many, the wines provide an inalienable benchmark against which all other wines are measured.
Bordeaux is divided into three winegrowing regions with the city that gives the region its name in the near geographical center. The “right bank,” or the area located east of the Dordogne River, produces wines that are predominantly Merlot with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The “left bank” is located to the west of the Garonne River and produces wines dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot.
The third region, Entre-Deux-Mers, lies between both rivers and produces white wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle. Though technically in the left bank, it is worth noting the appellation of Sauternes, which produces arguably the world’s most famous sweet wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle as well.
Though many top Bordeaux wines are sold en primeur (in advance of their bottling) and often through a middleman known as a negoçiant, Kermit has always preferred to purchase directly from the winemaker. For more than three decades he has sought out small producers, who make classic Bordeaux wines and are willing to play outside the negoçiant system. This ethic has led to longstanding relationships, excellent prices, and perhaps most important—wines of great value and longevity.
Château Gombaude-Guillot France | Bordeaux | Pomerol
Château Belles-Graves France | Bordeaux | Lalande-de-Pomerol
Château Ducasse France | Bordeaux | Bordeaux
Château Haut-Lariveau France | Bordeaux | Fronsac
Domaine de l’Alliance France | Bordeaux
Château Gombaude-Guillot France | Bordeaux | Pomerol
Château Haut-Lariveau France | Bordeaux | Fronsac
Château Aney France | Bordeaux | Haut Médoc
Château Moulin Pey-Labrie France | Bordeaux | Canon-Fronsac
Château Belles-Graves France | Bordeaux | Lalande-de-Pomerol
Château Aney France | Bordeaux | Haut Médoc
Château Roûmieu-Lacoste France | Bordeaux | Sauternes
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
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