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2015 Moulin-à-Vent “Vieilles Vignes”

Domaine Diochon

2015 Moulin-à-Vent “Vieilles Vignes”  Domaine Diochon - Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
This vintage may put the whole “I don’t drink Beaujolais” thing to rest once and for all. Try the 2015 on your most recalcitrant anti-Beaujolais acquaintance. It’s got guts and brawn, deep, dark color and layers of flavor,with a fruit profile bordering on Pinot. As the price of land in Burgundy shoots through the roof, Burgundians are buying up acreage at a record pace in the Beaujolais—and, nine out of ten times, in Moulin-à-Vent in particular. No surprise that they call this the most “Burgundian” of the Cru Beaujolais. –Chris Santini
$24.00
Vintage: 2015
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Gamay
Appellation: Moulin-à-Vent
Country: France
Region: Beaujolais
Producer: Domaine Diochon
Vineyard: 50 years, 5.05 ha
Soil: Pink Granite, sandstone, with a manganese-rich sub-soil
Alcohol: 13%

More from this Producer or Region

About Beaujolais

After years of the region’s reputation being co-opted by mass-produced Beaujolais Nouveau and the prevalence of industrial farming, the fortunes of vignerons from the Beaujolais have been on the rise in the past couple of decades. Much of this change is due to Jules Chauvet, a prominent Beaujolais producer who Kermit worked with in the 1980s and arguably the father of the natural wine movement, who advocated not using herbicides or pesticides in vineyards, not chaptalizing, fermenting with ambient yeasts, and vinifying without SO2. Chief among Chauvet’s followers was Marcel Lapierre and his three friends, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thévenet—a group of Morgon producers who Kermit dubbed “the Gang of Four.” The espousal of Chauvet’s methods led to a dramatic change in quality of wines from Beaujolais and with that an increased interest and appreciation for the AOC crus, Villages, and regular Beaujolais bottlings.

The crus of Beaujolais are interpreted through the Gamay grape and each illuminate the variety of great terroirs available in the region. Distinguishing itself from the clay and limestone of Burgundy, Beaujolais soils are predominantly decomposed granite, with pockets of blue volcanic rock. The primary vinification method is carbonic maceration, where grapes are not crushed, but instead whole clusters are placed in a tank, thus allowing fermentation to take place inside each grape berry.

Much like the easy-going and friendly nature of many Beaujolais vignerons, the wines too have a lively and easy-drinking spirit. They are versatile at table but make particularly good matches with the local pork sausages and charcuterie. Though often considered a wine that must be drunk young, many of the top crus offer great aging potential.

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2007 Côte-de-Brouilly

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2016 Fleurie “Les Moriers”

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2016 Beaujolais

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2011 Beaujolais “Cuvée 1512”

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2016 Beaujolais-Villages “Marylou”

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2016 Moulin-à-Vent “Vieilles Vignes”

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2016 Côte de Brouilly

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2015 Patrimonio Rouge “Grotte di Sole”

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Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

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