If Moretto’s Lambrusco is an adult refusing to grow up, this Dolcetto is a youngster wanting to chime in at the grown-up table. Well-mannered, surprisingly complex for its young age, it won’t come at you with the unchanneled energy of a teenager but rather expresses itself softly, with restraint, making its point thoughtfully yet assertively. This translates into not only floral aromas and velvety texture but also a tannic structure that keeps you on your toes. For now, it’s the perfect companion for an apéritif, but you get a glance at the animated dinner conversations you will have in a few years.
|Vineyard:||30 years, 1 ha|
|Aging:||2 months in botti then 10-12 months in cement vats before bottling|
Reviews and notes on Guido Porro regularly refer to him as “under the radar”: his wines are worthy of a stellar reputation, but he is too easygoing and unassuming to worry about whether the wine-drinking public recognizes his name. Guido is the fourth generation at an estate that has always been passed from father to son, and although fifth-generation Fabio hasn’t reached middle school, he is already showing a keen curiosity in the family business. The Porros continue to work just as their predecessors did—the only major change over the last few decades has been the decision to bottle at the estate. Guido sticks to traditional methods in the vineyards and cellar, and he never gets in the way of the grapes’ natural expression.
Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.
Inspiring Thirst, page 236