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2010 Canon-Fronsac

Château Moulin Pey-Labrie
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Grégoire and Bénédicte Hubau are outliers among their Bordeaux neighbors: their personable style and commitment to low-intervention, “natural” winemaking are qualities you’d more likely expect from the friendly gangs of vignerons from the Beaujolais, Loire, or off-the-beaten-path Languedoc. Their terroir-driven Canon-Fronsac always satisfies my hankering for something comforting and out of the ordinary. A decade in bottle has softened this rouge into an open-knit, unbuttoned style of Bordeaux, beaming with aromas of bing cherry, anise, and violet. You’ll be happy to serve it for a special occasion, or when you simply want to spoil yourself.

Jane Augustine

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Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2010
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Merlot
Appellation: Canon-Fronsac
Country: France
Region: Bordeaux
Producer: Château Moulin Pey-Labrie
Winemaker: Bénédicte & Grégoire Hubau
Vineyard: 65 years avg., 7.63 ha
Soil: Clay, Limestone, Molasse
Aging: 18-month élevage in barriques, 30-50% new
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 14.5%

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About The Region

Bordeaux

map of Bordeaux

Often considered the wine capital of the world, Bordeaux and its wines have captured the minds, hearts, and wallets of wine drinkers for centuries. For many, the wines provide an inalienable benchmark against which all other wines are measured.

Bordeaux is divided into three winegrowing regions with the city that gives the region its name in the near geographical center. The “right bank,” or the area located east of the Dordogne River, produces wines that are predominantly Merlot with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The “left bank” is located to the west of the Garonne River and produces wines dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot.

The third region, Entre-Deux-Mers, lies between both rivers and produces white wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle. Though technically in the left bank, it is worth noting the appellation of Sauternes, which produces arguably the world’s most famous sweet wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle as well.

Though many top Bordeaux wines are sold en primeur (in advance of their bottling) and often through a middleman known as a negoçiant, Kermit has always preferred to purchase directly from the winemaker. For more than three decades he has sought out small producers, who make classic Bordeaux wines and are willing to play outside the negoçiant system. This ethic has led to longstanding relationships, excellent prices, and perhaps most important—wines of great value and longevity.

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Kermit inspecting wine barrels

For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.

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