Memories, Wines, and Reflections
© Gail Skoff
© Gail Skoff
Memories, Wines, and Reflections
In our July newsletter, Kermit reflects on the old days after cleaning up his home office and finding his earliest tasting notes. Particularly inspired by his first wine-buying trip to Paris, he notes that on May 3, 1974, he walked into the wine shop of Monsieur Jean-Baptiste Chaudet, who “generously opened at no charge so many great bottles for tasting and devoted such a big chunk of time to me, just me, of all people…”
I found that I preferred a perfectly made so-called “little” wine to a mediocre version of a great appellation. In France, grand cru refers to the vineyard, the land. Not the wine. You might find a masterpiece from Chinon or Cornas and a disappointing Chambertin. In fact, my experiences include exactly such incidents.
After visiting Chaudet, I was never content to look for wines only where everyone else was looking, and later I would be the first to import natural wines into the United States. Not a bad first day in France!
And I left with a copy of Chaudet’s little book, Marchand de Vin, even though I couldn’t read French. Once I could understand it, I read it, and here is where this could be interesting for you. Monsieur Chaudet wrote about lesser-known white Burgundies. Listen closely: “And sincerely, I began to prefer them to the grands crus, because they are lighter, more ethereal, and thus, easier to assimilate. I am, I must say, a big eater and I like to quench my thirst.” He points out that he can drink more wine, “not put the brakes on,” and drink much more cheaply from white Burgundies outside the grand cru zones. I grew to see what he meant, and ever since have offered my clientele a large menu of so-called “lesser” Burgundian appellations. See the list of current offerings at the end of these reflections.
Read the full piece here.
Wines In The Collection
Domaine Montanet-Thoden France | Burgundy
Climate, a clay-and-limestone soil, and stainless-steel vinification are the pillars of Valentin’s Galerne blanc, a divine rendition of pure, chiseled Chardonnay.
Pierre Guillemot France | Burgundy
Full of that perky, palate-opening freshness and vigor that’s so essential in a blanc.
Roland Lavantureux France | Burgundy
Displaying both the oyster shell quality we love about Chablis and the sunny orchard fruit notes that make Bourgogne blancs so delicious.
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils France | Burgundy
Pinot Beurot is the Burgundian name for their local strand of Pinot Gris. It is unique and delicious and showcases an interesting bit of Burgundy’s history.
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy
Classy, pure, and precise Chardonnay, evoking freshly crushed apples, crushed stones, and citrus zest.
Domaine François Lumpp France | Burgundy
A bright, chalky personality full of energy and thirst-quenching savor.
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy
Bursting with energy and joy, this wine is bound to bring out the best of your inner bon vivant.
France | Burgundy
Climate, a clay-and-limestone soil, and stainless-steel vinification are the pillars of Valentin’s Galerne blanc, a divine rendition of pure, chiseled Chardonnay.
France | Burgundy
Full of that perky, palate-opening freshness and vigor that’s so essential in a blanc.
France | Burgundy
Displaying both the oyster shell quality we love about Chablis and the sunny orchard fruit notes that make Bourgogne blancs so delicious.
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils
France | Burgundy
Pinot Beurot is the Burgundian name for their local strand of Pinot Gris. It is unique and delicious and showcases an interesting bit of Burgundy’s history.
France | Burgundy
Classy, pure, and precise Chardonnay, evoking freshly crushed apples, crushed stones, and citrus zest.
France | Burgundy
Lumpp’s blanc offerings may be small, but they are mighty.
France | Burgundy
A bright, chalky personality full of energy and thirst-quenching savor.
France | Burgundy
Bursting with energy and joy, this wine is bound to bring out the best of your inner bon vivant.
More Collections
Snack of the Summer
A curated collection of thirst-quenching Mediterranean rosés to complement panisses & all manner of al fresco summer snacking.
Joie de Vivre and a Zeal for Burgundian Terroir
In a way, it’s a blessing that Valentin Montanet’s northern corner of Burgundy isn’t home to any premiers or grands crus. Under no pressure to do anything too grand or fussy with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, or Melon de Bourgogne, Valentin’s greatest ambition is to make the most pure and joyous whites and reds possible…
Latest Finds from Kermit’s Cellar
Who hasn’t felt a pang of jealousy reading about the wines Kermit tasted in damp, dark French cellars and vigneron dining rooms during his early adventures on the wine route? 1959 Joguet Chinon, 1955 Tempier rouge, 1942 Chave Hermitage—each vibrant, alive, and in their prime, despite their many years in bottle. That’s why we take such pleasure in unearthing aged bottles we’ve tucked away over the years to share with you…
Fine Wine Bargains
Once I left Burgundy and began exploring elsewhere, I noticed that France and Italy produced incredible bargains, especially if one looked where no one else was looking. Nothing makes me prouder (commercially speaking, anyway) than returning home with yet another fine wine bargain for you...
Very Vieilles Vignes
This collection features wine produced mainly from vines planted before 1950, with some going as far back as 150 years—these twelve wines are truly very old-vine gems! Don’t miss some of France and Italy’s greatest viticultural treasures.…
Introducing Domaine Thillardon
Beaujolais may be a lighter wine, but we at KLWM don’t take our Beaujolais lightly! Our appetite for bright, pure-fruited Gamay has been insatiable ever since Kermit’s first trip exploring the region in 1974. It has been our joy to introduce you to benchmark domaines such as Lapierre, Foillard, and Château Thivin, and now there is a new name to remember…
New Arrivals
Here is a collection of recent arrivals. Every week, we’ll be adding a dozen or more new arrivals, so check back often for your favorite classics or new discoveries!
The Carpe Vinum Collection
An ever-changing offering of wines that are just about to sell out; one last opportunity to seize a range of selections before they disappear from our shelves forever.
50th Anniversary Merchandise
When the esteemed French wine artist Michel Tolmer created beautiful artwork for our 50th anniversary, we knew right away that we had to feature it on a few select items of merch. After spending maybe a little too much time researching the options, we landed on a classy, leather-strap cap, a comfortable t-shirt made from 100% cotton, and a tote made with incredibly sturdy, fair-trade, and organic cotton by a certified B corp that invests in the livelihoods of women and farmers of India, featuring three wine sleeves and two other compartments for all of your other needs!
Recent Wine Club Selections
Our five wine clubs feature our best values from France and Italy as well as complex and cellar-worthy wines.