Notify me
2019 Viré-Clessé “En Châtelaine”
Domaine Robert-Denogent
Since in 2016, brothers Antoine and Nico at Robert-Denogent have been experimenting more. For example, they’ve been testing more biodynamic farming practices and using less new wood in which to age their wines. Beginning in 2017, Viré-Clessé “En Châtelaine” is a new bottling—50% of which was sourced from vines planted in 1917—and it wasn’t aged in wood at all. Instead, it was fermented and aged in a concrete tank. The result is classy, pure, and precise Chardonnay, evoking freshly crushed apples, crushed stones, and citrus zest. It would be perfect alongside baked steelhead trout.
—Tom Wolf
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2019 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Chardonnay |
| Appellation: | Viré-Clessé |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Burgundy |
| Producer: | Domaine Robert-Denogent |
| Winemaker: | Antoine and Nico Robert |
| Vineyard: | Planted in 2003 (50%), 1917 (50%), 1.2 ha |
| Soil: | Limestone, marl |
| Aging: | Fermented and aged in concrete tank for 12 months |
| Farming: | Biodynamic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 15% |
More from this Producer or Region
2022 Pouilly-Fuissé “La Croix Vieilles Vignes”
France | Burgundy
Bursting with energy and joy, this wine is bound to bring out the best of your inner bon vivant.
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
France | Burgundy
The fruit quality is dark and earthbound, like eating blackberries in the shade.
2023 Mâcon-Villages
France | Burgundy
With mouthwatering notes of citrus, honey, and the faintest salinity, this Mâcon-Villages is immediately approachable (read: gulpable).
2022 Pouilly-Fuissé “Les Reisses Vieilles Vignes”
France | Burgundy
This wine has an impressive track record of aging, developing luscious notes of smoke, honey, butterscotch, and marzipan after ten to fifteen years in bottle.
2019 Pouilly-Fuissé ”Climat Vieilles Vignes“
France | Burgundy
Limited to vintages where poor weather prevents individual bottlings, Climat renders all the top qualities of the Robert family’s holdings.
2023 Fixin “Crais de Chêne”
France | Burgundy
Fixin is known as the “rustic cousin” to Gevrey-Chambertin, but Bouvier’s Crais de Chêne is refined and easy to adore.
2023 Santenay Rouge 1er Cru “Les Gravières”
France | Burgundy
This Gravières has loads of fruit, and it’s also got that unique Burgundy—and, more precisely, Santenay—earthiness to it that can turn the accidental sipper into a full-blown connoisseur.
2020 Pouilly-Fuissé “La Croix Vieilles Vignes”
France | Burgundy
Bursting with energy and joy, this wine is bound to bring out the best of your inner bon vivant.
2024 Bourgogne Epineuil
France | Burgundy
Ethereal and bright, with the notes of cherry and earth that get red-Burgundy lovers’ hearts racing.
2022 Saint-Véran “Les Pommards Vieilles Vignes”
France | Burgundy
More-than-fifty-year-old vines running through limestone and clay produce a wine that offers a creamy and luscious mouthfeel intertwined with a dry, stony minerality.
About The Producer
Domaine Robert-Denogent
About The Region
Burgundy
In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.
Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.
To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.
Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.
More from Burgundy or France
2023 Morey Saint Denis “En la Rue de Vergy”
René Bouvier France | Burgundy
2023 Santenay Rouge 1er Cru “Le Passetemps”
Jean-Marc Vincent France | Burgundy
2012 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru
Domaine Taupenot-Merme France | Burgundy
2023 Marsannay Rouge “Les Longeroies”
René Bouvier France | Burgundy
2023 Bourgogne Rouge
Antoine Jobard France | Burgundy
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils France | Burgundy
2022 Beaune 1er Cru “Les Montrevenots”
Antoine Jobard France | Burgundy
2023 Vin de France Blanc Melon de Bourgogne
La Sœur Cadette France | Burgundy
2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru “Les Vaucrains”
Domaine Robert Chevillon France | Burgundy
2022 Marsannay Blanc “Les Longeroies”
René Bouvier France | Burgundy
2023 Savigny-Lès-Beaune “Les Grands Picotins”
Domaine Pierre Guillemot France | Burgundy
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “La Perrière”
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils France | Burgundy
2023 Morey Saint Denis “En la Rue de Vergy”
René Bouvier France | Burgundy
2023 Santenay Rouge 1er Cru “Le Passetemps”
Jean-Marc Vincent France | Burgundy
2012 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru
Domaine Taupenot-Merme France | Burgundy
2023 Marsannay Rouge “Les Longeroies”
René Bouvier France | Burgundy
2023 Bourgogne Rouge
Antoine Jobard France | Burgundy
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils France | Burgundy
2022 Beaune 1er Cru “Les Montrevenots”
Antoine Jobard France | Burgundy
2023 Vin de France Blanc Melon de Bourgogne
La Sœur Cadette France | Burgundy
2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru “Les Vaucrains”
Domaine Robert Chevillon France | Burgundy
2022 Marsannay Blanc “Les Longeroies”
René Bouvier France | Burgundy
2023 Savigny-Lès-Beaune “Les Grands Picotins”
Domaine Pierre Guillemot France | Burgundy
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “La Perrière”
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils France | Burgundy
Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch