Meet the Pinots
by Anthony Lynch
Pinot Gris from one of Alsace’s great sites bears little resemblance to the exact same grape grown on the hillsides of Friuli, just as the rare Tuscan Pinot Nero is a different animal from a Burgundian or Loire rendition.
Pinot Gris from one of Alsace’s great sites bears little resemblance to the exact same grape grown on the hillsides of Friuli, just as the rare Tuscan Pinot Nero is a different animal from a Burgundian or Loire rendition.
Meet the Pinots
by Anthony Lynch
If ever there was a royal family in the wine world, it would most certainly be the Pinot family. No other group of grapes is so revered and adulated, and, collectively, achieves such greatness as do the Pinots. And while Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris (or, in Italian, Grigio) are responsible for a wide range of distinct wine styles, it is crucial to note that they have the same origin. In fact, they are practically the same variety! Their primary difference comes from a genetic mutation: Pinot Blanc is a mutation of Pinot Noir with lower anthocyanin levels, meaning less color in the grapes and resulting wine. Pinot Gris, logically, lies somewhere in between the two.
However, there is much more to consider than just color in the grape skins. In addition to pigmentation, these varieties vary in their acidity levels, potential alcohol, berry size, and cluster compactness, among other factors. And, evidently, wines made from each Pinot present aromas and flavors that are entirely their own.
As the head vigneron at Kuentz-Bas, a historic Alsatian domaine, Olivier Raffin crafts a multitude of wines from all three Pinots. “To me, they are very different varieties,” says Olivier. “If these grapes are really from the same family, they are more like cousins than siblings: they share some similarities but have many differences.” He points to the grapes’ pH at ripeness (low for Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, high for Pinot Gris) and the vigor of each vine (low for Pinot Noir, high for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris) to illustrate his experience with each, also noting that the diversity of clones within each variety could account for some of this variability. “If a mutation took place, it must have been long ago, and since then each variety has evolved independently,” he surmises. “This is just my feeling; I am no expert in ampelography!”
The wines in this collection explore the nuances between these closely related, yet highly individual cépages. In addition to smelling and tasting the differences between each, you will discover how they express themselves across various terroirs and production methods: Pinot Gris from one of Alsace’s great sites bears little resemblance to the exact same grape grown on the hillsides of Friuli, just as the rare Tuscan Pinot Nero is a different animal from a Burgundian or Loire rendition.
There is clearly much to love about the Pinot family, and we invite you to discover all of its many charms with 20% off wines in this collection, now through Monday, May 30th.
Wines In The Collection
Meyer-Fonné France | Alsace
That grapes can be cajoled and fashioned to make such a liquid is miraculous.
France | Alsace
That grapes can be cajoled and fashioned to make such a liquid is miraculous.
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