Hero of the South
by Tom Wolf
©
©
Hero of the South
by Tom Wolf
Having done as much as any other vigneron to bring esteem to the serious, delicious, and terroir-driven wines of the Languedoc, Domaine d’Aupilhac’s Sylvain Fadat is one of the heroes of the region. For decades, he has broken ground—literally and figuratively—in the town and appellation of Montpeyroux, about half an hour west of Montpellier. A quiet, off-the-beaten-path wine village, Montpeyroux lies in the foothills of the Cévennes mountain range. As hot and dry as the village gets during the summer, it benefits enormously from its proximity to the cooling mountains and you can sense the balance and finesse imparted by warm days and chilly nights across Sylvain’s range of whites and reds.
For starters, there’s the Aupilhac blanc, a classic, stony southern white with notes of straw, herbs, and beeswax made from Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Clairette, and Vermentino planted behind the winery on the lower slopes of Mont Baudile. Then, as you move up the hill outside of the village of Montpeyroux, you arrive at Sylvain’s steep amphitheater of vines called Les Cocalières, which he created from nothing thirty years ago. This remarkable land yields an outstanding white wine whose notes of fruit and florals are very charming today, and which will continue to evolve beautifully over several years.
Moving to the reds, there’s no better place to start than with Lou Maset, a rustic country wine that’s perfect alongside a baguette and saucisson and fall stews. From there, open Sylvain’s flagship Montpeyroux Rouge, which boasts beautiful notes of black fruit, a sturdy mineral spine, and plenty of power. And, finally, there’s Le Carignan, a rustic and robust testament to Sylvain’s unwavering belief in the worthiness of this great southern French grape. Crafted solely from old-vine Carignan, this rouge is reminiscent of dark fruit, game, stones, and garrigue. It is fresh and approachable now, and will blossom in your cellar.
Wines In The Collection
Domaine d’Aupilhac France | Languedoc-Roussillon
One of five or six most outstanding dry whites of the Mediterranean rim, vintage after vintage and worth every centime!
France | Languedoc-Roussillon
One of five or six most outstanding dry whites of the Mediterranean rim, vintage after vintage and worth every centime!
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