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2021 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva “Passolento”
La Marca di San Michele
“It’s always windy here,” says Alessandro Bonci as a gust of cool air whirs past us. It’s springtime, and we are overlooking the colorful parcel whose grapes will become his Passolento cuvée. The plot looks more like a field of wildflowers than a vineyard. It is covered in bright yellow blossoms—mustard plants—whose deep roots help loosen soil and provide nitrogen; on the surface they serve an important role as well: “for beauty, for our pleasure.” My heart swells. It’s easy to see how these vines, pampered by Alessandro and prized for their exceptional fruit, yield a complex and chalky white wine that’s reminiscent of Chablis or great Vermentino.
—Jane Augustine
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2021 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Verdicchio |
| Appellation: | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi |
| Country: | Italy |
| Region: | Le Marche |
| Producer: | La Marca di San Michele |
| Vineyard: | Planted in 2005, 1.6 ha |
| Soil: | Limestone, Clay |
| Aging: | Ages in 10 hl Slavonian oak botti for 8 months |
| Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
| Alcohol: | 13.5% |
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About The Producer
La Marca di San Michele
About The Region
Le Marche
Le Marche’s reputation as a producer of fine wine is relatively recent, as the region is very much off the beaten path for tourists and tasters alike. And yet, early Etrsucan and Roman civilizations grew grapes here, a tradition that persists and continues to gain momentum in this undulating land where the Apennines descend to the Adriatic.
In between the warm coastline and the cool, rugged mountainous border with Umbria lies a landscape of calcareous rolling hills that provide ideal conditions for viticulture. The zingy, green-tinged, citrus- and pine-scented Verdicchio is king here, producing delightfully crisp whites that perfectly complement the fresh fish and seafood stews of the Adriatic, in addition to the pork-based dishes that are staples inland. Around the towns of Jesi and Matelica, the grape takes on an additional dimension and is even capable of significant aging under the right conditions.
While our involvement in the region is recent, the two producers we represent demonstrate that Le Marche is capable of producing whites of serious interest, which often come at great value.
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.
Inspiring Thirst, page 312