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2023 Vino Rosso “Munaloss”
Cantine Garrone
The Garrone family under vines trained in the region’s distinctive toppia method
The view from Cantine Garrone’s vines
Back in May, when we shared the Prünent—aka Nebbiolo—revelations of Cantine Garrone with you, we had low stock of the family’s Munaloss bottling, an extraordinary value, so I mentioned it briefly in passing while focusing more on the majestic, single-variety wines that go toe to toe with the best of Barolo. But a small shipment of the Munaloss just arrived at the port a few days ago, so I feel like I can now properly give this $19 beautiful Nebbiolo blend its due.
Near Italy’s border with Switzerland, Piemonte’s Val d’Ossola can feel remote in a geographical sense, but also a temporal one. Being there, you might think you’ve traveled back in time several hundred years. Largely untouched places like this sometimes produce delicious but rustic wines, but in Cantine Garrone’s case, the wines are delicious and extraordinarily refined. This finesse comes, in part, from the region’s cool climate and also from its distinctive toppia system, wherein vines are trained on massive stone and wooden pergolas to ensure slow ripening and as much protection from the elements as possible.
A beautiful introduction to the Garrones’ line-up, blending mostly Nebbiolo with a splash of Croatina, Munaloss is fresh and juicy, with notes of cherries and brambly fruit. It is a perfect red for pizza on the patio, seared tuna with tomatoes and capers, or your favorite weeknight pasta.
—Tom Wolf
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | 80% Prünent (Nebbiolo), 20% Croatina |
| Country: | Italy |
| Region: | Piedmont |
| Producer: | Cantine Garrone |
| Winemaker: | Piermario, Roberto, Marco and Matteo Garrone |
| Vineyard: | 10-50 years old; 4.5 ha |
| Soil: | Sandy loam, gneiss |
| Farming: | Sustainable |
| Alcohol: | 12.5% |
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About The Producer
Cantine Garrone
Cantine Garrone was founded in 1921 by Luigi Garrone in Piemonte’s northernmost wine appellation, Val d’Ossola. Even now, this is one of the most wild and inaccessible parts of Piemonte, where many of the vines cling to mountainsides at incredibly steep inclines. Today, Luigi’s grandsons, Piermario and Roberto, run the winery alongside Roberto’s two sons, Marco and Matteo. The family has made it their life’s purpose to preserve and elevate the wines of Val d’Ossola, focusing in particular on Prünent, commonly understood to be the oldest existing clone of Nebbiolo. In the 1990s, they launched an effort to assist local farmers who were struggling to produce enough grapes for any viable commercial activity. They work with more than forty growers to combine their efforts and as a result, have saved the local winemaking tradition from certain extinction. In total, the family owns 3.5 hectares of vineyard and manages another 7.5 through this community of forty growers.
About The Region
Piedmont
Kermit’s love affair with the great reds of Piemonte dates back to the early days of his career: the very first container he imported from Italy, in fact, featured legendary 1971 and 1974 Barolos from Vietti and Aldo Conterno. Regular visits since then have seen our portfolio grow to now twelve Piemontesi estates, with a strong focus on the rolling hills of the Langhe.
Nebbiolo rules these majestic, vine-covered marl slopes, giving Italy’s most mystifyingly complex, nuanced, and age-worthy reds. When crafted via traditional production methods—long macerations and extensive aging in enormous oak botti—the powerful, yet incredibly refined Barolos and Barbarescos provide haunting aromatics of tar, raspberry, incense, tea, roses, and more. At times austere in their youth but well worth the wait, they pair beautifully with the hearty local cuisine starring veal in many forms, braised beef, pastas like tajarin and agnolotti, and of course, Alba’s famous white truffles.
Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Piemonte’s climate is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. Nebbiolo is only part of the story here: juicy, fruity Barberas and Dolcettos represent the bread and butter throughout the region, and other native grapes like Freisa, Croatina, and the white Arneis are also noteworthy. Value abounds in the Monferrato, while Alto Piemonte also has its share of thrills to provide.
Every corner of Piemonte is rich with tradition, especially when wine is concerned. It’s no wonder we have been singing the region’s praises for over forty years.
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171