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2022 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

Colleleva
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A common scenario plays out again and again in wine shops around the country. An affordable wine seemingly comes out of nowhere, wowing wine lovers with its deliciousness and value. Customers can’t get enough, and it soon sells out. But when the eagerly anticipated next vintage arrives, something is off. Maybe it’s just the variability of the vintage, or maybe the producer cut corners to make more wine. Whatever the reason, though, the magic is gone.
     A more uncommon scenario is when, after a spectacular debut, the next vintage is just as good, as is the one after that, and the one after that. That’s the case with this unassuming Verdicchio from the Marche. The 2014 vintage arrived with a bang, and the wine has been a customer (and staff) favorite ever since. It’s sourced from vineyards planted on hillsides that face east into the cooling breezes of the Adriatic Sea, which offer protection from the summer heat. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, and aging is brief to preserve freshness. The nose on the 2022 has hints of peach and pear. In the glass, soft fruit up front precedes a crisp, pleasantly grassy finish with a kiss of acidity. Remarkably refreshing and delicious, it produces a spark, an ineffable element that says, “Something special is happening here.” I’m not sure what the secret is, but I suspect it’s magic.

Dustin Soiseth

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Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2022
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Verdicchio
Appellation: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Country: Italy
Region: Le Marche
Producer: Colleleva
Vineyard: 30 year old vines, 25 ha
Soil: Sandy tuffo
Aging: Wine ages in stainless steel for 3 months
Farming: Sustainable
Alcohol: 12%

More from this Producer or Region

About The Region

Le Marche

map of Le Marche

Le Marche’s reputation as a producer of fine wine is relatively recent, as the region is very much off the beaten path for tourists and tasters alike. And yet, early Etrsucan and Roman civilizations grew grapes here, a tradition that persists and continues to gain momentum in this undulating land where the Apennines descend to the Adriatic.

In between the warm coastline and the cool, rugged mountainous border with Umbria lies a landscape of calcareous rolling hills that provide ideal conditions for viticulture. The zingy, green-tinged, citrus- and pine-scented Verdicchio is king here, producing delightfully crisp whites that perfectly complement the fresh fish and seafood stews of the Adriatic, in addition to the pork-based dishes that are staples inland. Around the towns of Jesi and Matelica, the grape takes on an additional dimension and is even capable of significant aging under the right conditions.

While our involvement in the region is recent, the two producers we represent demonstrate that Le Marche is capable of producing whites of serious interest, which often come at great value.

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Inspiring Thirst

I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

Inspiring Thirst, page 171

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