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2022 Saint-Aubin Rouge “Les Eduens”

Domaine Larue
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Discovering Saint-Aubin in Burgundy is a little like stumbling upon an outstanding, but unknown and well-priced restaurant or jazz club tucked back in an alley along your town’s main drag. Wines from this appellation would be as sought after as many others from the Côte de Beaune if Saint-Aubin weren’t essentially hidden behind the towering giants of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny Montrachet. For Burgundy lovers on a budget, however, this is a blessing. You can still experience incredibly classy Côte d’Or reds and whites without biting off a sizable chunk of your paycheck. Even though the majority of Saint-Aubin is planted to Chardonnay, reds like Domaine Larue’s Les Eduens prove that the terroir here is also beautifully suited to Pinot Noir. What does “Les Eduens” mean? The Larues named this bottling after the population that lived in the region during the period of the Roman Republic (up until the first century B.C.). This medium-bodied rouge, with notes of freshly crushed black cherries and cranberries filtered through stones, would be sublime alongside any kind of grilled or roasted fowl. I poured a glass, grilled some maitake mushrooms, and stuffed them in a grilled cheese sandwich, which was pretty perfect, too.

Tom Wolf

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Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2022
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Pinot Noir
Appellation: Saint-Aubin
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Producer: Domaine Larue
Winemaker: Didier, Denis, and Bruno Larue
Vineyard: 1.08 ha, Planted in 1972, 1980
Soil: Limestone
Aging: Wine ages for 12-18 months in barrel then 3-4 months in tank before being bottled unfiltered
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 13%

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About The Region

Burgundy

map of Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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Where the newsletter started

Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

Read the whole story

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