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2022 Grolleau “Franc de Pied”
Bernard Baudry

Vignerons can be sneaky people. Take Matthieu Baudry, who nonchalantly handed me a bottle—as if it were an afterthought—following an outstanding tasting at his family domaine near Chinon a few summers ago. He muttered something along the lines of “I do this on the side, for fun” as I stared at him inquisitively, the look on my face asking, Were you trying to hide this from me?!
The wine in question is a Grolleau produced from nine-year-old ungrafted—franc de pied— vines in a small sandy parcel on the banks of the Vienne, a tributary to the Loire that has carved out some of the finest terroirs in the great Chinon appellation. Once widely planted in its native Loire Valley, Grolleau can still be found in certain pockets, but requires the hand of a skilled vigneron to check its high-yielding nature. Matthieu ferments the Grolleau whole-cluster and ages it in tank, producing a juicy libation brimming with lively fruit marked by the silky, sensuous texture of an unfiltered bottling. Brambly berries and lifted floral notes combine with an earthy coolness and touch of spice in this red whose low alcohol level makes it even easier to fervently slurp down.
While it does not carry the heft or nuance of Matthieu’s Chinon bottlings, this cuvée—served chilled, of course—has the irresistible, easygoing nature of top Beaujolais. He was able to spare ten cases of his “afterthought,” and we are thrilled to carry it.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2022 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Grolleau |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Bernard Baudry |
Winemaker: | Matthieu & Bernard Baudry |
Vineyard: | Vines 9 years old |
Soil: | Sand, yellow limestone |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 10% |
More from this Producer or Region

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2019 Savennières “Cuvée Spéciale”
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2022 Vouvray “Les Fondraux”
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2021 Chinon “Les Granges”
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Put a slight chill on it, pop the cork, and inhale its lively perfume: the floral fragrance and bright, juicy fruit—picture fresh-squeezed berries—are simply irresistible.

2020 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
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2021 Chinon Blanc
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2020 Chinon “Le Clos Guillot”
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Even though all of the wines hail from Chinon, the soil, elevation, and exposition all combine to make Le Clos Guillot their cuvée with the most finesse.

2022 Chinon Rosé
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Matthieu Baudry captures both youthful fruit and energizing mineral textures with this rosé.

2020 Vouvray “Pierres Rousses”
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This wine is deep and textural, with serious presence on the palate and a dry, flinty finish.
About The Producer
Bernard Baudry
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
2017 Saumur Blanc “Le Clos du Moulin”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2018 Vouvray “La Moelleuse”
Champalou France | Loire
2019 Chinon “Clos du Chêne Vert”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2022 Sancerre “Côte des Embouffants”
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire
2022 Sancerre
Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy France | Loire
2019 Bourgueil “Clos Sénéchal”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2021 Chinon “Les Grézeaux”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2020 Sancerre Rouge
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2022 Sancerre HALF BOTTLE
Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy France | Loire
2021 Chinon “Les Granges”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2020 Vin de France Blanc Chenin “Centenaire”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2022 Savennières “Cuvée Spéciale”
Château d'Epiré France | Loire
2017 Saumur Blanc “Le Clos du Moulin”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2018 Vouvray “La Moelleuse”
Champalou France | Loire
2019 Chinon “Clos du Chêne Vert”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2022 Sancerre “Côte des Embouffants”
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire
2022 Sancerre
Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy France | Loire
2019 Bourgueil “Clos Sénéchal”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2021 Chinon “Les Grézeaux”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2020 Sancerre Rouge
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2022 Sancerre HALF BOTTLE
Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy France | Loire
2021 Chinon “Les Granges”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2020 Vin de France Blanc Chenin “Centenaire”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2022 Savennières “Cuvée Spéciale”
Château d'Epiré France | Loire
Kermit once said...

Kermit once said...
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174