Silvio Giamello’s cellar in the town of Barbaresco is like a temple of fine Nebbiolo: quiet, dark, and saturated with a mystical energy that permeates the air while divine vinous scents waft up from the glass he has ceremoniously filled with a sample of the latest vintage. Silvio crafts utterly pure, transparent Barbaresco capable of wooing the senses and stirring up deep emotion in the lucky few who taste his modest production—minuscule numbers and reserved demeanor ensure that his wines stay under the radar. He is a vignaiolo in the truest sense of the term, a farmer whose work in the cellar relies solely on patience, tasting, and the wisdom passed down from previous generations. This entails natural fermentations, aging the wines in botti grandi (oak casks), and bottling them unfiltered.     
     Mature bottles of Barbaresco from this tiny grower rank among the finest Nebbiolos I have ever tasted. The scintillating, rose-scented 2001 will be hard to forget, as will the burly 2003 paired with tagliatelle coated in a slow-cooked beef ragù prepared by Silvio’s wife, Marina.     
     The 2020 will doubtless offer the same thrills to those capable of keeping their hands off it. It presents a wonderfully rich, intense aroma of classically styled Barbaresco, layered with underbrush, tobacco, and bitters. A delicate and savory palate, framed by fine Nebbiolo tannins and plenty of refreshing acidity, suggests it will live a long and prosperous life. If you wish to drink it young, it is certainly open for business today, especially paired with sautéed wild mushrooms or a pan-seared ribeye.