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2020 Fronsac “Les Piverts”

Chateau Moulin
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pivert, in French, is a woodpecker. The name of this wine alludes to the nagging feeling in one’s temples after overindulging, akin to the incessant drilling of a woodpecker. I can’t claim to know the cure for a hangover, but I do practice prevention! Staying hydrated is key, and choosing wines that are well made and balanced seems to work wonders. Hubau’s Les Piverts has zero added sulfur and is like a big bowl of brambly fruit with a touch of graphite and a splash of violet. An affable wine, full of charm, it is easy to pair and has a revolutionary’s spirit: it’s uncommon to find “natural” wine in Bordeaux as transparent as this one, but someone had to pave the way.

Jane Augustine

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Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2020
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Merlot
Appellation: Fronsac
Country: France
Region: Bordeaux
Producer: Château Moulin
Winemaker: Bénédicte & Grégoire Hubau
Vineyard: 45 years avg., 0.5 ha
Soil: Clay, Limestone
Aging: One-year élevage in cement cuve
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 12%

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About The Region

Bordeaux

map of Bordeaux

Often considered the wine capital of the world, Bordeaux and its wines have captured the minds, hearts, and wallets of wine drinkers for centuries. For many, the wines provide an inalienable benchmark against which all other wines are measured.

Bordeaux is divided into three winegrowing regions with the city that gives the region its name in the near geographical center. The “right bank,” or the area located east of the Dordogne River, produces wines that are predominantly Merlot with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The “left bank” is located to the west of the Garonne River and produces wines dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot.

The third region, Entre-Deux-Mers, lies between both rivers and produces white wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle. Though technically in the left bank, it is worth noting the appellation of Sauternes, which produces arguably the world’s most famous sweet wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle as well.

Though many top Bordeaux wines are sold en primeur (in advance of their bottling) and often through a middleman known as a negoçiant, Kermit has always preferred to purchase directly from the winemaker. For more than three decades he has sought out small producers, who make classic Bordeaux wines and are willing to play outside the negoçiant system. This ethic has led to longstanding relationships, excellent prices, and perhaps most important—wines of great value and longevity.

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Old wine bottles

Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.

Inspiring Thirst, page 236

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