2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
One of Rousset-Martin’s flagship cuvées, this Savagnin hails from François’s very own vines in the marl soils of the storied Château-Chalon appellation and was patiently matured in Burgundian barrels. A transformative process must have been at work here, with the dynamic freshness of the ouillé, or topped-up style, yet it still displays hints of caramelization and golden savoriness. It’s racy but rich, umami-driven, and creamy, and could be a compelling marriage with the notoriously difficult-to-pair artichoke, especially with a ramekin of butter alongside. Transcendent!
—Jennifer Oakes
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2018 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Savagnin (ouillé) |
Appellation: | Côtes du Jura |
Country: | France |
Region: | Jura |
Producer: | François Rousset-Martin |
Winemaker: | Francois Rousset-Martin |
Vineyard: | 30 years , .25 ha |
Soil: | Gray marl |
Aging: | Aged on fine lees |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 13.5% |
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
Domaine Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura
The Jura wine world is a fascinating, mysterious, and at times confusing one. The region’s recent surge in popularity on American wine lists lies in contrast with how strange its wines come across to the uninitiated, with many of its indigenous production methods and quirky winemakers requiring more than an introduction for one to fully savor their virtues. We firmly believe, however, that the pleasure at stake is well worth a slight detour to study the wild world of Jura.
Jura tradition calls for aging whites sous voile, or under a fine “veil” of yeast that grows over wine in barrel that has not been topped-off (non ouillé) to compensate for evaporation. The voile effectively slows the process of oxidation, while chemical reactions between these microorganisms and the wine below give rise to a highly distinctive and complex set of aromas. Often hinting at walnuts, beeswax, oriental spices, cheese rind, and brine, wines aged sous voile can come as a shock to the unhabituated palate. Their textural and aromatic singularity naturally sets them in a category of their own at table, perhaps the best setting in which to gain an appreciation for such wines.
Many Jura producers also produce more conventional whites in an ouillé, or topped-off style, as is practiced in Burgundy–or for that matter, in essentially all the white wines we are accustomed to. This method preserves fresh fruit flavors without the rather rustic, often funky oxidative notes typical of wines aged sous voile.
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
Domaine Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
Domaine Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
Domaine Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
François Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
Domaine Rousset-Martin France | Jura | Côtes du Jura
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
Many food and beverage cans have linings containing bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical known to cause harm to the female reproductive system. Jar lids and bottle caps may also contain BPA. You can be exposed to BPA when you consume foods or beverages packaged in these containers. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/bpa